Actually, using resist dye technique using indigo to create patterns and designs on cotton is called shibori, tritik, amarra or plangi(depending upon country of origin). It’s not the hippie dippie 60’s tie dye that’s been reincarnated on beach blanket bingo T-shirts. It’s high fashion wearable art. Not long ago, I saw an Eileen Fisher designer label Made in Japan shibori design on a finely woven cotton scarf dyed with indigo at a Nordstrom selling for over $100USD. The technique is universal.
Norma's Indigo Dyed Shibori Napkins -- A Gift for Jacob and Michelle
As frequently as once per month, Eric Chavez Santiago teaches a hands-on indigo dye workshop for people of all ages at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. At a recent workshop, a mother, father and baby sister accompanied a six-year-old who made a fish design on a white cotton T-shirt. Dad was right by his side and the learning was a fun family adventure. Other participants included local artists, university design program students, and visiting tourists.
Indigo can be used to dye cotton, wool, alpaca, silk, linen and the fiber of the agave plant. Some women in Oaxaca villages even use indigo to dye their hair. Dyeing with indigo is all about chemistry. Cellulose fibers such linen, cotton and agave absorb less indigo to get an intense color than do protein fibers of silk and wool. Said another way, it takes less indigo to dye cotton than wool. That’s why, we are using 100% cotton for the workshop. Polyester blends just won’t work because indigo saturates only the surface of the fiber, not it’s core.
Look for Felted Fashion Oaxaca Style, coming in February 2013. It includes dyeing wool roving, silk, and cotton with natural materials and making your fabric into luxurious scarves, blouses, wraps. Contact me to get on the mailing list for complete course description. Instructors are clothing designer Jessica de Haas, Vancouver, B.C., and Eric Chavez Santiago, Oaxaca, Mexico. Limited to 8 participants.
The process is fairly simple. First, we rinse the white fabric (I dyed white, handwoven cotton napkins from the Amuzgo tribe) in clear water to soften it. Then, we squeeze out all the moisture and make our design.
1. To make the shibori design, you can make accordian folds and then tie this together with rubber bands or with string. You can drape cloth over marbles or beans, securing them with string or a rubber band. You can whirl the fabric and then tie it with string or rubber bands.
2. To make the tritik design, you use a needle and thread to create a very specific pattern, folding the cloth and then sewing through it.
3. It probably takes about an hour to make the design. Tie a lead string onto your fabric so you can easily fish it out of the water.
4. Dip the folded and/or sewn fabric into the dye pot for 20 minutes. Be careful to immerse it gently into the solution. Do not stir or disturb in any way. Pull the piece out of the dye pot with the lead string.
5. Hang on a line from the string until the fabric changes from green-yellow to blue, for 15-20 minutes.
6. Repeat two more times.
7. Remove the rubber bands or thread.
8. Rinse well in water. Then, dip in vinegar water for 5 minutes to set the dye, soften the fabric and remove any of the alkaline residual and garlicky odor
9. Let hang to dry.
Viviana Alavez Hipolito, Grand Master of Oaxaca Folk Art–Beeswax Candlemaking
It takes over one hundred passes of hot dripping wax poured over a four or five-foot tall woven cotton wick to create a handmade ceremonial beeswax candle. We are in the Teotitlan del Valle home workshop of traditional candlemaker Viviana Hippolito Alavez, who is recognized as one of the Grand Masters of Oaxaca Folk Art. Her work is exemplary.
The family lives on an unpaved road off the main street just as you enter the village, about two miles from the Pan American Highway 190. There is a freshly painted, brand new sign at the corner directing visitors to Abasolo #7. It is a humble house, filled with activity and warmth.
Viviana greets us with a wide smile and guides us to the covered outdoor space where she works alongside her son and daughters-in-law. They are learning from her, just as she learned from her grandmother. In the corner, a pot of cochineal-dyed wax simmers over a wood fire. It is hazy and aromatic.
The wicks are suspended from wheels. Viviana climbs on a small chair that she tells us she has been using for thirty years. It is crusted with wax layers like an archeological discovery.
Today, there are only four artisans remaining in Teotitlan who craft these traditional candles that are used every life cycle celebration: baptisms, funerals, engagements (contentamientos), weddings. These are candles used in the church, home altar rooms, and posadas during Christmas, Day of the Dead, and Semana Santa.
We talk about the abuelas, the traditional grandmothers who keep craft alive. Viviana tells Crespo, you must present your wife with a bouquet of candles when you ask her to marry you. Did you do that? she asks. Crespo’s wife, Ana, stands next to us, smiles and says, no, but he will do that today!
Claudia wonders how long this art form will survive as we watch Viviana first spit on and lick the bottom of the clay bowl before dipping it into the hot wax colored red with cochineal. An enzyme in the saliva must make it easier to remove the wax once it hardens. She then dips it into a bowl of cool water and peels off the circle that will become a flower decoration for an elaborate candle.
Will this be the last generation to do this work? Is our visit something that only tourists do, as one village visitor said as she declined to join us? What can we learn here about family, environmental sustainability, and the hard work and time that goes into creating something made by hand? What do we value as a society?
The family uses only natural dyes to color the beeswax and the clay molds made in Aztompa that Viviana inherited from her grandmother. Her son shows us the molds that are intricately carved with figures of hummingbirds, nuts, ducks, and lilies. The type of clay used then is no longer available today.
Should it be our responsibility to visit, support, and buy the handcrafts and artwork created here, whatever it is, in order to offer and demonstrate our respect for the traditions that keep a culture vibrant? I believe so.
Over the years, I have visited Maestra Viviana many times, never tiring of watching her create, the expression in her face, appreciating the knowledge and rootedness and love she expresses for her traditions. I see the caring and support of her children who help her continue her work. This is a blessing for all of us as she teaches the next generation of candle makers.
Best to call in advance to make an appointment for a visit. Impromptu often leads to the disappointment that no one will be home! Although serendipity happens, too!
Viviana Alavez Hipolito, Abasolo #7, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, tel: 951-524-4309
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Teotitlan del Valle
Tagged beeswax, candles, folk art, handmade, Mexico, Oaxaca, traditions, Viviana Alavez Hipolito