Tag Archives: recipe

Post-Thanksgiving Gratitude, Wishes, Stuffing and Stuff

To all my friends and readers near and far, to my family whom I adore, Gracias,  Gracias por todos, thank you for everything. Your love, caring, generosity, support, guidance and just being you means everything to me. You are numerous  — my world is big and inclusive. Consider yourself part of life’s blessings in Thanksgiving, today and always. Gracias.

I don’t know why I woke up hungry today, Black Friday. Maybe because I’m thinking about how to best avoid the crush, rush of Internet and store message bombardment to my inbox.  Food is so soothing when faced with the anxiety of impulse shopping because there might be a bargain out there.

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Thanksgiving Day in Santa Cruz, California was a marathon food fest with two giant meals.  The first was at our mother’s retirement community where residents, children, grandchildren and friends attended a lavish buffet.  My sister thinks this was the first time my mother (being germ-cautious at age 97-1/2) kissed her on the mouth.  My sister forgot to put on lipstick. It was a moment of sharing.  Thank goodness this meal began at noon!

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Next up: My brother-in-law brought Ernestina’s mole negro back with him from Oaxaca with the intention of making Thanksgiving turkey mole.   Ernestina is my friend and neighbor who lives down the lane in Teotitlan del Valle.  Thanksgiving2013-16

Her spicy black chocolate sauce, which she served us on All Souls Day before going to the village cemetery, is among the best we’ve ever tasted.  Someday, I will watch her prepare it and share the recipe.  I know she takes her chocolate beans (which she roasts herself) to the molina and adds the secret proportions of sugar, cinnamon, almonds and vanilla to yield a thick, rich paste. I know this because I bumped into her there.

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At 4 p.m. when Barbara and George’s guests arrived, I was at the stove making Chanukah potato latkes (see recipe below), enough for 30 people, although there were eight of us.  B&G have been sharing Thanksgiving with the wine making Ahlgren family for over 25 years.  They arrived with vintage bottles of early 1990’s bottles of Chardonnay and Merlot. We started with champagne, moved on to the wine, and topped off the dinner with a mezcal tasting.  Thank goodness it took me an hour to make the latkes and we didn’t sit down to eat until six o’clock.

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Our menu included homemade applesauce, turkey mole (George grilled the turkey breast, sliced it, and then added it to Ernestina’s mole to simmer for a couple of hours before serving), potato latkes, Shrimp Louie salad, homemade poppyseed cake with lemon curd and vanilla ice cream.

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Oops, can’t forget the Tucson Tamale Company tamales — turkey and cranberry, and sweet potato.  Sister had them shipped frozen, overnight delivery, only waiting to be steamed and served.

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So, for me, Thanksgiving is about making sure we have more than sustenance in our lives.  It says, it is important to live in abundance.  It is valuable to express gratitude to those who love us, care for us, come into our lives if only for a moment. It is our opportunity to reach out to friends and family to share our harvest.  It is a time to appreciate all that we do have and being satisfied.

Which is why it is so strange that Black Friday follows the day after — promoting a yearning for more, the frenzy of acquisition, the quest for stuffing our homes, closets and lives with more stuff.  Certainly the Thanksgiving stuffing should be enough!

Best wishes to you all for a season of peace, abundance and connection.

Norma’s Original Thanksgivvukah Potato Latkes

  • 6 peeled, Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered
  • 1 medium onion, quartered
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 medium eggs, scrambled
  • 3 T. matzo meal
  • 1 t. salt (prefer fine ground sea salt)
  • 1/2 t. pepper, fresh ground
  • 2-3 c. olive and safflower oil mixed

Add potatoes to a food processor bowl with the chopping blade inserted.  Pulse 6-8 times until the mixture is a coarse chop, with 1/4″ pieces.  Remove to bowl of water.  Let sit for 5 minutes. Drain to remove the potato starch.  Return to food processor bowl.  Add onion and garlic.  Pulse 2-3 times. Add salt and pepper.  Pulse 2-3 times to stir.  Add matzo meal.  Pulse to stir.  Add eggs.  Pulse to stir.

Pour 1-2 c. oil into fry pan and heat on medium high burner until oil sizzles. Test with flick of water.  If water jumps, oil is ready.    Using a large tablespoon, put 1/4 c. of potato mixture into hot oil for each latke (pancake).  Flip when one side is golden brown.  Continue cooking until both sides well-browned.  Remove.  Drain on paper towels.  Serve hot.

Serve with applesauce and sour cream.  We had a jar of homemade hibiscus flower jam from El Diablo y La Sandia B&B in Oaxaca, which was an extra treat to go with the latkes.

 

Bringing Morocco to Mexico: Tagine Oaxaca-Style Mole Recipe

One of Morocco’s delights is tagine clay pot cooking.  This heavy clay platter with conical top is perfect for one-dish meal preparation.  I packed my tagine securely with bubble-wrap in Marrakech, seasoned it in North Carolina, repacked it, and have been cooking with it since arriving in Oaxaca this week. Tagine-2 Tagine

Oaxaca-Morocco Fusion Food:  Now, instead of Moroccan spices, I have adapted the traditional seasonings and substituted mole. Sacreligious for purists, perhaps.  But innovative for me and making the most of where you live!  Take your pick: mole negro, mole coloradito, mole manchemanteles, mole amarillo, mole verde, etc.  Whichever you choose — Ummm, good. Tagine-6 There Plus, there are huge health benefits from cooking with a tagine.  You use very little oil and water.  Meats and vegetables are pressure cooked on low heat, simmering in their own juices, and the flavors are intense.  The ratio of vegetables to meat is high. This recipe is also gluten-free!  Eliminate the meat and it’s a perfect vegetarian meal. Tagine-3-2 Ingredients:

  • 1/4 – 1/3 c. olive oil
  • 1 large onion, julienned
  • 6-8 cloves of garlic, peeled
  • 1/2 cup fresh peas or dried garbanzo beans
  • 2-3 medium potatoes cut into 2″ pieces
  • 2 large carrots, cut into 1 ” slices
  • 2 zucchini squash or 1 medium choyote squash
  • 3 T. mole paste
  • 1/3 c. water
  • salt to taste
  • Optional:  1 chicken thigh and 1 chicken drumstick
  • Optional:  1 T. diced candied kumquats or ginger
  • Optional:  2 T. chopped cilantro

Directions:

  1. Coat clay platter with olive oil.
  2. Spread onion and garlic evenly on bottom.
  3. Add vegetables in a pyramid, densest ones first:  peas (or garbanzo), potatoes, carrots, squash.  I’m in Mexico, so I added nopal cactus.  You can try green beans or yellow squash.
  4. Arrange chicken so that the pyramid is secure.
  5. Top with the candied fruit and/or cilantro if you wish.
  6. Mix the mole paste with water.
  7. Drizzle the mole liquid evenly over the pyramid of meat and vegetables.
  8. Add cover.

Now, this is important!  Use a heat diffuser on the stove top gas burner.  (Use oven or a specially designed diffuser if you have electric burners.)  Put tagine on the diffuser and turn burner to low.  I’m using an 8-1/2″ cast iron Nordicware diffuser that I brought from the U.S. If you are cooking meat, cook for at least 2 hours.  If you are cooking vegetables, this should be done cooking in about 1 hour.  Check periodically to see that there is enough liquid.  If too much liquid, then spoon it out. Turn burner off.  Let tagine cool at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving. If you are cooking in an oven, put the tagine in a cold oven, turn heat to 325 degrees, and cook as if you are making a stew.

Turn oven off.  Leave tagine in oven until it cools somewhat. Tagine-7 Tagine-2-3 Sudden temperature changes will cause a tagine to crack.  Keep it oiled with olive oil when not in use.

Hint:  it’s apple season now in Oaxaca, and apples and raisins and pears and prunes would also be great additions.  What about almonds, dates and dried apricots? Whatever you love and whatever is in season will work as long as you use the density and pyramid formula!

Tagine-5And, then there is El Morocco Restaurant in Oaxaca, highly rated by Trip Advisor.  In Colonial Reforma, Reforma 905, tel: 01 951 513 6804 I haven’t been there yet, but want to try it!  Thanks to Mary for directing me there!

Oaxaca, North Carolina: Recipe for Best Pinto Bean Frijoles–Ever!

Not far from Tuxtepec, Oaxaca, in the Papaloapan region  on the Veracruz border lies the village of Loma Bonita just off the Sayula de Aleman-Tierra Blanca Highway 145.  Known as the pineapple capital of the world, the region is home to the famed Flor de Piña dance we see every year at the Guelaguetza. They say Loma Bonita is a great stopping off point between Oaxaca City and Veracruz.  Some claim Loma Bonita was founded by estadounidenses who found it to be a perfect place to camp.  Quien sabe?

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It is also a place from which immigrants come to North Carolina, U.S.A.  I discovered that there is an enclave of Oaxaqueños from Loma Bonita living in the town of Siler City not far from my North Carolina home.  

One young woman I talked with from Loma Bonita says she loves it there, and while there is work here in North Carolina, she dreams of going back.  Many Mexicans want to go back to where they came from, she said.  That’s where we really feel at home.

 

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Fiber Fiesta is a street fair that showcases the  textile arts of Chatham County, NC.  Spinners, weavers and natural dyers participated.  I was there to represent Federico Chavez Sosa’s wonderful Oaxaca rugs.  The “fiesta” part featured a Mexican food street cafe organized as a fundraiser for the teenage youth group at Saint Julia Catholic Church.   Over 80 percent of the parish is Spanish speaking. Latino parents and teens worked together to create a street cafe much like we find on the corners of Oaxaca, where fresh, delicious food is prepared and served by excellent home-style cooks.

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I looked on as the men volunteers set up tents, cafe tables and chairs, and an outdoor gas-fired cook stove.  The women donned rubber gloves and plastic hair covers, and rolled up their sleeves.  They set to work making spicy shredded chicken-filled empanadas and tacos, refried beans, salsa verde and shredded lettuce salad — making masa (corn dough) from scratch right there on the street and cooking it, just like in Oaxaca!

The refried beans were the most delicious I’ve ever tasted: a version originating from Loma Bonita, I suspect! Here is the simple recipe shared with me.

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Recipe: Refried Beans Loma Bonita Style

  • 1 lb. pinto beans, rinsed drained
  • 1/4 lb. chorizo (Mexican sausage), cooked and drained of all fat
  • 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and sliced thin
  • 1/4 c. cooking oil

Cook pinto beans until soft and all liquid is absorbed (according to package directions).  Add jalapeño pepper and cook for another five minutes.  Mash with potato masher until a paste.  Thin with a little water, if needed.   Crumble chorizo into the mix and mix evenly.  Heat oil in large frying pan.  Add bean paste.  Continuously stir until mixture is thoroughly cooked and begins to bubble.   Taste to correct seasoning (see if it needs any more salt). Serves 4-6.  Store in refrigerator or freezer in covered container.

Siler City, NC, has a population of over 50 percent Latinos.  Most come from Mexico and many are from Oaxaca.  Whenever I want/need a special cooking ingredient or a taste of Mexican soul food, that’s where I go!  Unless I’m in Oaxaca, of course! (smile) Buen provecho. 

Oaxaca in Santa Cruz, California, and Everywhere, U.S.A.–Cross-Cultural Influences

Gema Cruz Ambrosia has been cooking at Gabriella Cafe in Santa Cruz, California for the past eighteen years.   Gema, (pronounced HAY-mah with a throaty H) whose name means gemstone, came to Santa Cruz twenty-eight years ago from a small village just beyond Oaxaca city called San Pablo Huixtepec.

Her entire family is here in Santa Cruz, including a twenty-seven year old daughter.  Gema looks to be not much older.   Her eyes dance and her wide smile broadens as she talks about integrating Oaxaca native foods into the California farm-to-table organic fusion menu of the cafe.  Gema is hard-working and resourceful.  Owner-manager Paul Cocking introduces Gema to me as the cafe’s sous chef.  She started out washing dishes and takes pride in her place of importance in the kitchen today.  There are stories like this everywhere.

Gabriella Cafe This was my second visit there this week, first with Leslie Larson for lunch and then with Bella Jacque for dinner, both past participants in Oaxaca Cultural Navigator workshops.  I’m in love with the food.

The menu reflects Gema’s influences: Rich, complex sauces, perfectly seared fish, house-marinated anchovies that tops crispy fresh greens.  The Sunday brunch features Gema’s roots: Huevos rancheros, chicken or pork with mole pipian, quesadillas with flor de calabaza, black beans with hierba santa, tamales flavored with chipil, large homemade tortillas fresh from the comal.  Gema talks about Oaxaca food as if it were her twin sister.  All the fresh ingredients, she tells me, are easily available locally.   She only has difficulty getting the large clay comales from Oaxaca on which to make the tlayuda-size tortillas.  They often arrive broken.  (When they do come intact, they need to be seasoned with lime powder  or calc before using.)

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Gema says there is a big Oaxaca population in Seaside, California, which is on the Monterey Bay, about an hour from Santa Cruz.  Census figures of 2010 count 43.3% of the population as Latino or Hispanic.

In the village of Teotitlan del Valle where I live, most immigrants from the village gravitate to Moorpark, Simi Valley and Oxnard, although there is a large Zapotec community from Oaxaca living in Santa Ana, California (which they call Santana).

I am constantly meeting Oaxaqueños in North Carolina, too.  The cross-cultural influences are strong, not only through the sharing of food and recipes.  The Oaxaca people I know work hard, are honest, care immensely about their families, and value traditions.  They take pride in their roots even when living in the United States.   Beyond recipes, there is a lot to learn from them and share.

Day of the Dead Photo Out-Takes: Part 2 + Recipe Quest

Traveling with a group of people you don’t know ahead of time could be risky for those who are independent and like to go off on their own to discover the world.  We found our companions who participated in the Day of the Dead Photography Expedition 2012 to be muy amable!  We shared interests, took time for ourselves and came together to learn and discuss.  We all had some good laughs with each other and at ourselves, too.

Here, Deby Thompson (left) and Helene Haviland (right) brought their tripods to the Zocalo to practice before we went off for an all-evening night shoot at the Xoxocotlan cemetery the following night.

 

The style of our instructor Bill Bamberger (left) is relaxed and informal.  He offered coaching sessions on the hoof, and here Mark Pollard and Bill strolled through the archeological site of Monte Alban together as Bill advised Mark, a very accomplished professional photographer, about ways he could build and organize his portfolio.  To the right is Erin Loughran at Yagul archeological site  determining which shot she wants to take.

 

Several of us stayed an additional day to explore Yagul and Mitla, two major archeological sites in the Tlacolula valley.  To the left, Bella, Erin and Helene posed for a photo in the shade of a 900 CE structure with Mixtec-Zapotec carvings at Mitla.  To the right, Helene showed us her clock, which she pulled out on many occasion to show street vendors that she didn’t have time to shop, she was running late.  They were speechless and she was able to walk away, no muss, no fuss, no bother.

Yagul is a stunning archeological site about 20 minutes south of Teotitlan del Valle off the Pan American Highway.  There has been intensive restoration there during the past six years and the views are amazing.  Here Kathy Heath is concentrating on getting from one magnificent spot to another.

Above, Bella Jacque sitting on the edge of a pyramid base at Yagul.

     

Helene and Bella at Yagul, where caves, windswept cactus, flowering acacia trees, and ancient rocks draw us to wonder about life in Mexico over 1,000 years ago.

And here we are hanging around under cover from the rain in Xoxocotlan, with Bill demonstrating a camera technique to Liz Thomas.

     

I took this portrait of Bill Bamberger early in the week of our workshop together.  I just loved how the light falls on his face.  To the right is Bella Jacque modeling a traditional indigenous rebozo from Tenancingo at the Sunday Tlacolula market, where we went after the visits to Yagul and Mitla.

It was a nicer day by the time we got to Teotitlan del Valle.  Bella is trying to figure out directions with the self-guided tour map I give to each participant.

After the workshop finished and I returned to North Carolina, Deby Thompson (right) and I got together with weaver Lynn Pownell in Durham at Dos Perros Mexican Restaurant.  They made us a delicious tamarind mezcal margarita, a close rival to the excellent Oaxaca versions at Cafe San Pablo and Los Danzantes. I am on a quest for the perfect tamarind mezcal margarita.  Does anyone out there have a recipe to share?  Anyone know Rick Bayless’ Tamarind Mezcal Margarita recipe?