Monthly Archives: July 2011

Oaxaca Photography: Sun, Color and Discarded Rules

Photography is about using your eye, moving your feet, getting close, looking for shapes, light, pattern, simplicity, the detail of the subject.  We are in Oaxaca where the sun is strong, the colors vibrant and the richness of place intoxicating.

    

I am told there is a saying, “el sol es la cobija de los pobres”  — the sun is the blanket of the poor.  I don’t know exactly what this means.  I extrapolate that warmth from the sun soothes us and can sustain our humanity.  Warmth protects and nurtures us.  Perhaps we need nothing more than the heat of the sun to find contentment and peace.  I wonder: Is the disgrace of poverty lessened by warmer climates?

  

Tom Robbins notes that “In countries with lots of sunlight, people gravitate to color.  “Think Greece and Mediterranean Italy,”  he says.

I see in Oaxaca that color expresses life, vitality, heart and soul.  In Oaxaca, far south of the U.S. border, color is primary and the sun is so strong that it bleaches and sucks the color from the skin of buildings.  They are continuously being painted.  Layer upon layer of paint on stuccoed adobe or wood is like an archeological dig to be carefully unearthed.  The textures are amazing.

  

Oil paintings, lithographs, and silkscreen prints are created with strokes of blood red, narcissus yellow, cobalt blue, fern green and all shades in-between — not pastel, but rich enough to make the eyes dazzle and the tongue savor as if everything were a tasty morsel to be consumed.

“Color,” Tom says, “brings a place to life.”  Perhaps it is the reflection of the sun on brightly colored buildings that radiates the energy to infuse us with joy and inspiration.

We are sitting in the La Biznaga restaurant courtyard on upper Garcia Virgil a couple of blocks from Santo Domingo Church.  There is no rush and a “normal” lunch or comida is a minimum of two hours.  We had a timeline but quickly discarded it.   The service is appropriately leisurely for the culture.

It is a sparkling day and the canvas roof cover is pulled back revealing pure blue sky that compliments the stark whiteness of the canvas.  The appetizers are jicama fingers sprinkled with lime juice and chile powder.  The margarita is salty- rimmed fresh mango slush with plenty of tequila.  Where did I have to go?

  

Sam Robbins says photography should be fun.  She offers, “There are too many rules that can limit your creativity.  Throw out the rule of thirds and fourths,” she goes on.  “This approach puts you in a box.  You become rule bound and that creates anxiety to be perfect.”  That’s when it all falls apart, I guess.  I was relieved to hear we would dispense with the rules!

   

We are talking about the workshop set to start in 24-hours but we are distracted by the laughter at adjoining tables, the terra cotta clay bowls filled with creamy yellow squash blossom soup, the sun-washed honey-colored walls of the courtyard embracing us, the crispy tortilla cones filled with sauteed purple hibiscus flowers adorned with a mound of creamy guacamole, and the intricately embroidered floral bodices of aprons hanging in an adjoining window.

Click here to read about Oaxaca Photography Workshop: Market Towns and Artisan Villages, Summer 2012   We are taking registrations now!

 

 

Oaxaca Photography Workshop: Market Towns + Artisan Villages Summer 2012

TWO SPACES LEFT!   9 Days- 8 Nights,  June 29 –  July 7, 2012

    

Discover how to better know and use your digital camera in daily learning sessions.  Then, apply what you learn “on location” to capture your Oaxaca, Mexico travel adventure.  The program focuses on the use of  digital SLR photography to capture, record and document indigenous life, festivals, markets, folk art and artisans, landscapes, and people.  This is cultural immersion at its best! Featuring Dance of the Feather–Danza de la Pluma.

  

You will join art photographers Tom and Sam Robbins, our husband-wife team from Columbus, Ohio, who will return in 2012 to guide our expedition. 2011 Expedition participants raved about how much they learned — even the most experienced among them!.  The Robbins’ are versatile, experienced teachers and coaches whose work has been published in national photography magazines.  Their website features photos from our 2011 expedition!

  

The colonial city of Oaxaca de Juarez is located 375 miles south of Mexico City, closer to Central America.  It can be reached directly from the U.S. by Continental Airlines/United Airlines from Houston, TX.  (We encourage you to use this shorter, more direct route.)

I felt extremely safe, the people are so warm and welcoming. I loved the culture.  The cooking class was an incredible experience.  Everything is beautiful here. -Emily Fox

  

We will be based 30-minutes outside of Oaxaca City in the Zapotec village of Teotitlan del Valle.  We are there during the annual saint’s day festival, featuring the colorful Parade of the Baskets (Calenda de las Canastas) and the extraordinary Dance of the Feather (Danza de la Pluma).  Throughout the week, we provide you with access to private homes and artist studios to enrich and personalize your photographic experience.

  

You will participate in a cooking class to learn more about regional indigenous foods and their preparation — photography welcomed!

The cooking class was great and it provided wonderful photo opportunities. The instructors are exceptional, and there are endless picture subjects here. I learned the different functions of my digital camera. -Kellie Fitzgerald

  

We’ll roam the huge regional Tlacolula market where vendors sell everything from live turkeys, handmade chocolate, woven hammocks, and the kitchen sink.   On market days, people come from remote mountain villages to buy and sell dressed in traditional indigenous clothing–a feast for the photographer’s eye.

  

We’ll also visit San Pablo Villa de Mitla archeological site, and stop to photograph the 3,000 year old cypress tree that is 160 feet in diameter at Santa Maria del Tule on our way to spend a day in Oaxaca City.

Both Tom and Sam were very interested in helping us improve as photographers. They answered all questions and provided excellent feedback.  I discovered that I enjoy photography that has an artist focus and how nice it is to be in a village with friendly people, in a culture that is so rich in ancient traditions.  –Chris Willmore

  

You do not have to be experienced to participate!

Most importantly you will learn to use your digital camera to the full extent of its capabilities and yours!  Whether you are a beginner, amateur or intermediate level photographer, this is the travel photography workshop you have been looking for!

Most valuable for me was learning how to use the manual controls of my camera, learning about depth of field and the macro settings.  Norma’s community connections provided unusual access to artisans. –Dan O’Brien

Topics Covered:

  • Using manual camera settings
  • Understanding composition
  • Capturing light, shadow and reflection
  • Knowing more about aperature and shutter speed
  • Determining when to use flash
  • Experimenting with black and white, and sepia
  • Exploring the essentials of landscape and portraiture
  • Applying editing software for special effects
  • Identifying what equipment is most useful
  • Getting feedback for steady improvement

This is a different experience from walking around and being a tourist! It means immersion, looking for opportunities to see things from an alternate perspective.  During the workshop, you will review each other’s work, give each other feedback, and provide gentle critique, all with the expert guidance and coaching from Tom and Sam.  A group presentation at the end of the week will give you an opportunity to showcase your best work and select a theme, if you choose.

  

This is a walking expedition!  Instruction will include both formal group discussion and a learn-as-you-go organic, flexible format.

  

Come with us!  Summer is the perfect time to explore the vibrancy, color and beauty of southern Mexico.   Farmers are tilling their fields with wood plows yoked to oxen, planting indigenous, organic corn.  Maize is ground by hand on metates in family courtyards to prepare tamales for red mole (MOH-lay) sauce local festivals.  The aroma and taste of just-made chocolate, mescal and mole stimulate the senses.   Days are warm and evenings are mild at this 6,000 ft. high desert plateau where sheep and burros graze, guacalotes cackle and eagles soar.

Sam (behind the camera) and Tom Robbins lead summer 2012 Oaxaca Photography Expedition

About Husband and Wife Photographers Tom and Sam Robbins, Your Expedition Guides and Workshop Leaders

Tom Robbins, a photographer for more than 40 years, is a professor of architecture at Columbus (Ohio) State Community College.  His careers in architecture and education have deepened his love for,  and understanding of design, composition and visual impact.  Tom and his wife, Sam, have exhibited widely and their work has been published in “Black and White Magazine.”  Tom has photographed extensively in rural Ohio, New Orleans, and Southern Mexico where he finds the landscapes, the architecture and the people wonderfully photogenic. In the last five years, Tom and Sam have made Mexico the primary subject of their photography and have visited Oaxaca and the surrounding villages numerous times.  Most of Tom’s work has been with 35 mm SLR and medium format cameras.

A serious photographer for over 20 years, Sam Robbins considers herself to be a “photographic hunter.”  Like her husband, Tom, she is most comfortable walking and wandering with her camera at the ready. While she has done studio portrait work, she is happiest allowing photographs to present themselves.  Sam teaches art, English and photography.  She sees sharing her passion for photography with students as one of the most rewarding experiences of her life.  Sam is also a quilter, and believes that her work with color and design have contributed to her photographic eye.  Though most of her work has been with a 35 mm SLR, she also has shot with medium format and really enjoys using a plastic, toy camera.  Recently, Sam taught and exhibited at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, where English and Spanish-speaking participants applauded her thoughtful, supportive style.

Tom holds the Bachelor’s in Architecture from the University of Illinois.  Sam holds the B.A. in political science from Ohio University and the M.A. in English Education from The Ohio State University with an art minor from Otterbein University.

See their work at   www.robbinsx2.com

  

Sam and Tom are the ideal instructions.  Any experience with them is one that is worthwhile.  I would recommend this program to others.  It is life changing and breathtaking.  — Emily Moore

Preliminary Itinerary (subject to change)

Day One,  Friday, June 29: Teotitlan.   This is your travel day. Arrive and settle in to our bed and breakfast. Dinner on your own.

Day Two, Saturday, June 30:  Teotitlan. Breakfast and learning session. Explore Teotitlan del Valle on foot: meet artisans, walk nature trails.  Group lunch.  Afternoon on your own. “Best of the Day” show and tell.  Group dinner. (B,L,D)

Day Three, Sunday, July 1:  Tlacolula Market.  After the morning learning session, climb on the local bus to travel 15 minutes to the Sunday tianguis or regional market. Return late afternoon.  “Best of the Day” show and tell. Group dinner.  (B,L,D)

Day Four, Monday, July 2: Oaxaca and “El Tule.  Lunch and dinner on your own.  (B)

Day Five, Tuesday, July 3: Cooking class. Early evening “Best of the Day” show and tell.  Group dinner.   (B, L, D)

Day Six, Wednesday, July 4,:  After breakfast and the morning learning session, we’ll travel to San Pablo Villa de Mitla to photograph this famed archeological site.  “Best of Day” show and tell.  Group dinner (B, L, D)

Day Seven, Thursday, July 5: After breakfast and the morning learning session, you’ll have the day to enjoy on your own to explore the village and surrounding countryside or return to Oaxaca City.  This is a free day.  Meet at 5:00 p.m. for the Parade of the Canastas – to begin the Teotitlan del Valle village saint day celebrations.   (B, D)

Day Eight, Friday, July 6:  After breakfast and the learning session, begin preparing your final presentation.  The Dance of the Feather starts in late afternoon in the church courtyard and continues non-stop through 10 p.m. followed by fireworks.  Participants will dance in full dress regalia.  The Dance dramatizes the story of the Spanish conquest and the roles of Cortes and Moctezuma.  Be sure to save a place for shots of those fantastic plumed headdresses and handwoven tapestry shields.  After dinner, we will have our Best of Week show.  (B, D)

Day Nine, Saturday, July 7:  Departure.

Optional Additional Days:  You may wish to stay in the village for several more days or arrive a few days earlier.  We are happy to arrange this for you at a cost of $48 per night per person for each additional day (includes breakfast only).

Dance of the Feather, Danza de la Pluma

What You Should Bring

1)     Your energy and enthusiasm

2)     Digital SLR camera

3)     Laptop computer

4)     Software for organizing and presenting images (such as Photoshop Express)

5)     Batteries and battery charger

6)     Memory card(s) and card reader

7)     Pen and notepad

8)    Memory stick–jump drive

Plus, sturdy, comfortable walking shoes, sun protection, sun hat

(Upon registration, you will receive a complete packet and information guide with suggested packing list and other useful information.)

 

Lodging/Accommodations

To keep this trip affordable, we stay in a local bed and breakfast operated by three generations of women — grandmother, mother, daughter — all great cooks! The food is all handcrafted and delicious.  Vegetarian options are available.

Accommodations are clean and basic.  Shared baths are across the courtyard. (Bring flip-flops and flashlight.)  You will have the option of having a double room with shared bath for the base price of the trip; single supplement with shared bath (add $200); shared room with private bath (add $200); single room with private bath (add $300).  Please indicate your preference.  If you desire upscale accommodations, please consider a different program!

Cost:  The base cost for the trip is $1295.00 USD. This includes 8 nights lodging double occupancy, 8 breakfasts,  4 lunches, 6 dinners, cooking class, transportation to villages and archeological sites, and all instruction.  Most travel programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!

It does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation.

Costs, Reservations,  and Cancellations

A 50% deposit ($650) is required to guarantee your spot.  The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be postmarked by April 1, 2012.  We prefer Payment with PayPal.  We will be happy to send you an  invoice.

Note: Our last photography workshop filled up immediately.  Don’t hesitate if you want to attend!

If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email.   After April 1, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space.  If you cancel before April 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit.  We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register or for questions, contact:  normahawthorne@mac.com or call (919) 274-6194

Please make your deposit payable to Norma Hawthorne, OCN-LLC and mail it to: Norma Hawthorne, 110 Blue Heron Farm Rd., Pittsboro, NC 27312.  Thank you.

Photos by Norma Hawthorne with the exception of the Robbins’ portrait. I use a Nikon D40X camera body and a 28-300mm Nikkor lens.

This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  For more information, see:  www.oaxacaculture.com

Quechequemitl Pattern: Sew Your Own Pull-over Shoulder Cover

Say KECH-KEH-MEE. Here’s a textile museum definition of quechquemitl?

  

Some people call it a shawl.  It isn’t.  Others say it’s a poncho.  It isn’t.  It’s not a scarf … exactly.  It’s two pieces of rectangular cloth sewn together at a counterintuitive place for the likes of me, finished with a bound hem or some fancy crotched edging or fringes to become an elegant summer drape over a sleeveless dress.  A wool one does just fine in winter to keep necks and shoulders snuggy warm.

  

Women from Mexico handy with needle and thread embellished their quechquemitls with incredible embroidery and fringes.  Some patterns were woven into the cloth as it was formed on the loom.

Today, I finally got to the piece of Tenancingo ikat handwoven cloth I bought a few weeks ago in the Tlacolula market.  I don’t crochet, but I do sew (when there’s time).  I find it very relaxing and creative!

First, I started with two pre-washed and dried pieces of cloth, 14-1/2″ wide x 27″ long.  Here’s the pattern I took a photo of at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca where their show featuring quechquemitls is a knock-out.  Images above are from the show.

Two pieces of equal size.

Sew together at the dotted line.  I used a sewing machine.

Here’s the tricky part — where to connect the remaining seam.  Do you see it? The short edge connects to the long side.  The dotted line in Diagram 4 below shows you where the stitching line is located.

  

Wearing the finished product and trying to take a photo of it!  I don’t have a suitable model or mannequin. On the right, I pieced it together with pins before sewing.  Here’s the prototype sample (below left) at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca.

 

 

 

Then, I discovered, there’s an entirely different way to sew the pieces together, so there’s a flap at the neck opening.  See if you can figure this one out (below).

  

There wasn’t a diagram.

This handy little cover-up is great for the beach, pool, or to keep your shoulders protected from the sun.  When I wear it in a V, it doubles for a nicely draping scarf.  Some indigenous women even wear theirs on their heads.

Let me know if you make one and send me photos of how yours turned out.

San Pablo Villa de Mitla in Black and White: Oaxaca Archeology and Photography

Grecas at Mitla archeological site

It was one of those perfect Oaxaca days where the skies were cerulean blue and filled with puffy white cumulus clouds scattered like pillows across the horizon. Our photography workshop participants set out by van for the ancient village of San Pablo Villa de Mitla at the far end of the Tlacolula Valley about 35-40 minutes from our base in Teotitlan del Valle.

Several of the participants as well as instructors, wife and husband team of Sam and Tom Robbins, were versatile in both digital and black and white film photography.  However, most of us had never used the black and white settings on our digital cameras before and this was our assignment for the day.  It was challenging and a stretch!

We spent the morning looking at the work of extraordinary black and white photographers — Ansel Adams, Josef Sudek, Andre Kertesz, Bill Brandt, Lewis Hine, Paul Strand, Walker Evans, Ron Mayhew, Richard Avedon, Jill Enfield, and Sam and Tom Robbins.  Then, we practiced using the settings on our own cameras.  Tom showed us his work just published in B&W Magazine.

Tom and Sam asked us to pay attention to window light, reflection off metal, shadow and shape, horizon lines, repetition of shape, texture, composition and gradations of grey.  In the pre-shoot learning session we discussed ways to capture shapes, tension, balance, to hold the camera to the eye and scan.

Woman with White Head Scarf by Omar Chavez Santiago

“Remember to move your feet.  Knowing where to stand,” says Sam, “is the most important thing we can teach you.”

This was my first attempt at B&W.  My friend Omar was a beginner and this was his first experience with digital photography.  It was a challenge and an opportunity to look at the world through a different lens!  We learned to shoot through doorways, look for repetition of angles, note that diagonal lines add tension and horizontal lines add stability.  We paid attention to simple shapes and to get close up.

    

“Tip the camera to get the best angle,” Tom Robbins encouraged us.  “Look for the mood of a place.”  Mitla is an extraordinary place. It is a pre-Hispanic Zapotec-Mixtec archeological site where the Spanish conquerors built atop a regional temple (as they did throughout Mexico) to attract locals to worship.

Handwoven Mitla waste basket

Chris, another participant, said, “I’m getting a ton of ideas.  This is encouraging me to look for opportunities in places I frequent at home to transform something ordinary into something extraordinary.”

“Watch for the light,” Sam said.  Catch movement.  A faster shutter speed with flash will sometimes stop your subject.

          

Stele at Mitla (above) is by Omar Chavez Santiago.  All other photos by Norma Hawthorne unless indicated.  I am using a Nikon D40X (out of production) and Nikkor lenses 18-105mm and 70-300mm.

Photographer Edward Weston captured Mitla in black and white between the 1920’s and 1940’s.  His photos are intense juxtapositions of light and dark.  Tom advised us to “get low against the wall if it’s noon to capture the shadows.”

We loved the experiment in black and white!

Come along on our next photography workshop:  Day of the Dead Photography Expedition with Bill Bamberger, October 29-November 4, 2011.

Oaxaca Health Clinic Welcomes Carolina Nursing Students


The School of Nursing at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill encourages students to develop the knowledge and skills needed to provide quality care in global environments and to recent immigrants to the United States. Students can do this by taking a summer course and meet requirements by volunteering with a nongovernmental organization or local health care agency in a global health setting.

One such agency is the El Centro de Salud in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca. The public health clinic offers preventive family care as well as low-level emergency services for about 8,000 residents of the village. At the clinic, Carolina nursing students get hands-on practice in a cross-cultural learning environment.

Teotitlan del Valle is in rural southern Mexico, about 17 miles (about 30 minutes) outside of the city of Oaxaca in the Tlacolula valley. In this centuries-old indigenous village many of the older residents speak only Zapotec — the predominant language of the region — and only know a smattering of Spanish. The area is high desert plateau at about 6,000 feet altitude, nestled at the foot of the 9,000-12,000 Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range. There are 2,000 looms in the village, which is known for its fine textiles.

Since 2008, Carolina nursing students have spent several weeks during the summer before their senior year living with a family and working alongside local doctors and nurses. The program was established by Norma Hawthorne, director of advancement for the School of Nursing, who has a long-term relationship with a village leader, Federico Chavez Sosa. In 2007, she asked if a UNC Chapel Hill nursing student could live, work, learn and share in an intercambio – an intercultural exchange and the opportunity was launched.

Today, Mr. Chavez Sosa heads the committee responsible for the village’s public health, including the clinic – one of the newest and most modern in the region. He talked to us recently about the community health concerns articulated by the new governor of the state of Oaxaca, Gabino Cue. Women’s and children’s health is a high priority, especially pre-natal care, labor and delivery. Mr. Chavez Sosa is interested in having many more Carolina nursing students participate in the experience. He notes that the village values participation by Carolina students because of their knowledge, dedication and contributions.

Students receive academic credit for NURS 489 Practicum in Nursing: Global Health Experience. This class is specifically designed for students with an interest in traveling abroad so that they may learn about health systems and the nursing profession in other countries. The academic program director is Christine Harlan, BSN, RN, MA, (chris_harlan@unc.edu). Some financial help may be available to students through various funding sources.

A History of UNC Chapel Hill School of Nursing Volunteers in Teotitlan del Valle:

2008 – Leilani Trowell

Leilani traveled the village by foot with local nurses to immunize children in their homes, did patient intake in the clinic, and assisted in out-patient procedures.

2009 – Lindsay Bach

Lindsay developed a diabetes education program for village women that included exercise and fitness as well as healthy food choices and recipes.  She had spent two years in the Peace Corps in Uzbekistan before coming to Carolina for nursing.

2010 – Amy Faline Davenport

Amy was a doula and interested in women’s health, prenatal care, birthing and post delivery, and assisted in birthing procedures.  She had already earned the MPH and decided to become a nurse.

2011 – Kathy Ray

Kathy is pursuing her second degree and is the mother of three older teenagers.  The experience will give her an opportunity to brush up on Spanish language skills as well as preparing her to care for new NC immigrants from Mexico.

Photos feature Lindsay Bach, BSN, RN who graduated in December 2009.