Monthly Archives: December 2021

How to Travel Safely (More or Less) to Oaxaca During Covid

My son Jacob always reminds me that each of us has a different comfort level of risk for contracting the virus. As we face new mutations — Delta, Omicron, Whatever is Next — we need to take a pulse for our own willingness to travel by plane. Whether we are traveling within the U.S. to Mexico or to South Africa, some degree of discomfort is going to follow us.

Even with three vaccines behind me, I am an uneasy plane traveler and I take precautions. I realize, too, that I am not completely immune from contracting covid. I just arrived back in Oaxaca on Monday after a two-legged journey from Albuquerque to Houston to Oaxaca as Omicron is spreading. This was my second trip back and forth to Mexico in a month.

What Did I Do? What Did I Notice?

Planes are full. That means that two or three abreast is more common than not. It means airports are filled with people and it’s the holiday season so more are traveling. The flight from Houston to Oaxaca was packed with Oaxaquenos living in various parts of the USA returning to their homeland to be with family for Christmas and New Years.

While facemarks are mandatory in airports and on airplanes, they are of varying quality and fit. I saw lots of “slippage” with masks migrating below the nose. I saw masks worn as neckbands. I saw eaters and sippers who did not return their masks to faces afterward.

  • I wore two face masks. First, an N95 covering my nose and mouth, then a handmade cloth facemask that includes a metal piece across the bridge to guarantee NO SLIPPAGE.
  • I used hand-sanitizer liberally.
  • I carry alcohol spray and wiped down seat armrests, tray tables and seat belt buckles.
  • The two young Mexicans flanking me on the Houston to Oaxaca flight asked to borrow my pen to complete the entry forms for immigration and customs. I didn’t deny them. But, I alcohol-sprayed the pen after use. (Nutz? Maybe.)

With a six-hour layover in Houston and the end-of the year approaching, I used my annual United Club Pass that comes with the credit card to enter the lounge. After scanning the room, I picked a seat far away from others. All the staff were masked appropriately. All the food was pre-packaged and safe. I noticed some doing business calls with masks on and others who did not. There were no mask police. I wasn’t going to be one.

When you fly direct from the USA to Oaxaca on either United or American, this is your port-of-entry. The flight attendants will give you three forms to complete while in the air: an immigration form (different for foreign and Mexican citizens), a customs form, and a COVID questionnaire. No COVID vaccine card is required. This questionnaire is in minuscule type. Don’t forget to bring a pen and have it handy.

When we arrived in Oaxaca, another international flight had arrived just moments before. So the line to enter the airport and go through immigration and customs was VERY LONG. There were at least 200 people in line. Sidewalk signs indicated a 1.5 meter (5 feet) social distancing rule. Airport personnel, however, wanted to make space on the sidewalk and asked us to get closer to each other.

I did not comply.

  • Instead, I maintained distance between me and the person in front of me.
  • I was still wearing two face masks.
  • I extended the handle on my carry-on roller bag as far as it would go and stretched the suitcase out behind me, guaranteeing a distance of about four feet as we waited in line.

Inside the terminal building, after presenting the passport, immigration and customs forms, and covid questionnaire to the official, I entered the bag claim area where it was CHAOS. It was not possible to maintain social distance. However, everyone was calm, respectful and wearing a mask properly.

One by one, we loaded luggage and handbags and backpacks onto a conveyer belt to go through an x-ray machine. Then, we hand the customs form to an agent. To the left is a kiosk where you are asked to push a button. Green light and you are free to exit. Red light and you are subject to luggage inspection. Completely random.

For those of you needing transportation from the airport to downtown, there is a kiosk to the right of the bag claim area after you exit. This is where you purchase the shuttle ticket. You tell the driver the address where you are going.

Protecting ourselves and traveling during covid is not easy. All of us want some degree of normalcy and I also think it is difficult to be vigilant 100% of the time. Travel during the holidays has always been stressful anyway. It’s even more so now. I just figured I would do the best I can.

Worth it? When I left Taos it was 3 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Days warmed up to high 30’s and low 40’s. Albuquerque was 17 degrees at night with day temps in low 50’s. Here, I’m enjoying chilly nights in the 40’s and daytime temps in the mid-70’s. Is it worth it? For me, yes.

Stories in Cloth: Presentation at the OLL

You are invited! Eric Chavez Santiago and I are making a presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library (OLL) on January 11, 2022 at 5 p.m. Please come if you are in Oaxaca. The library is next to the Hotel Mariposa o. Pino Suárez near Parque Llano

FACE MASKS REQUIRED. PMEASE KEEP YOUR NOSE AND MOUTH COVERED. NO EXCEPTIONS.

Here is the program:

Stories in Cloth: Deciphering and Collecting Oaxaca Textiles

Tuesday, January 11, 5:00 p.m. — 100 MXN pesos for members. 130 MXN pesos for non-members.

Using examples from their personal collection and through photographs, Norma and Eric will discuss the rich textile history of Oaxaca to help participants better understand our state’s rich weaving traditions. From the Oaxaca coast to the Mixe to the Papoalapan region, the diversity of woven cloth — wool and cotton — tells a story of people, beliefs and traditions. Each village has both similar and different stories to tell through the cloth they weave.

Eric and Norma will select villages from various regions to explore designs and materials and techniques. They will talk about how to assess quality, how to differentiate between cloth woven on the backstop loom, pedal loom or on a machine. They will discuss “fair trade,” pricing and value, authentic from copycat, and cultural appropriation.

Furthermore, they will recommend villages and makers near Oaxaca City where excellent quality can be found at fair prices.

Like Antiques Roadshow, Norma and Eric invite audience members to bring one piece from their own collection to show. Presenters will attempt to identify where it was made, how it was made, and the story in the cloth.

Eric Chavez Santiago and Norma Schafer, Teotitlan del Valle cemetery, Day of the Dead 2021

Bio Briefs

Norma Schafer is a retired university administrator and director of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC. She has lived in with the Chavez Santiago family in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, since 2005. In 2006, Norma started organizing tapestry weaving and natural dye workshops, cultural and textile tours, concentrating on Oaxaca and Chiapas.

Eric Chavez Santiago was the founding director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca from 2008 to 2016. In 2017, the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation tapped him to open, manage and promote indigenous artisan craft through their new folk art gallery, Andares del Arte Popular. Eric resigned from the foundation at the end of 2021 to grow the family enterprise, Taller Teñido a Mano, which provides naturally dyed cotton yard and woven goods to a worldwide market. Eric is a native of Teotitlan del Valle and speaks three languages: Zapotec, Spanish and English.

We are pleased to present this educational program in collaboration with the OLL.

Don’t Lose Your Passport Like I Did!

I started preparing for my return to Oaxaca on Tuesday, December 7 planning to leave Taos on Saturday, December 11 for a Monday, December 13 flight. I could not find my passport. After frantically turning my house upside down and inside out, looking in every drawer, pocket and purse six times, I was starting to panic. Friends said it would turn up. It didn’t. The last passport in hand memory was on November 11, when I returned to New Mexico through Houston. I posted an urgent HELP WHAT TO DO on Wednesday via Facebook. (This is where Facebook comes in handy and why I don’t resign from it.)

Lots of good suggestions came in, the most valuable from my friend Lew Borman from Chapel Hill, NC, who worked in government affairs for years. Call your Congressman, he advised. They will help you. They have a case worker who facilitates these things. Who would have known?

My Congresswoman is Teresa Leger Fernandez. I found office phone numbers in New Mexico and Washington, DC and left voice messages on Wednesday. I filled out the request form on her website online. I called the DC office once again and the person who answered took my information. Within the hour Carlos Sanchez called me. My choice, he said, was to go to the US Passport Agency in either Denver or El Paso, each a good five to seven hours from Taos.

(Nothing is close to Taos. Our biggest store is a mini-Walmart with no fresh food department. There is no Whole Foods, Costco or Macy’s. People love Taos because it is LOCAL and it takes some travel and effort to get consumer needs met other than via Amazon Prime. Okay, Taos is a backwater and its the price we pay to live in pristine beauty.)

Onward. I wrote Carlos saying there was a major winter storm coming through Taos and the Rockies with temps dropping to 3 degrees Fahrenheit (this is not a typo: THREE DEGREES). I said it would be wiser for me to go south even though it would add on travel time in normal conditions. I thought to myself, I don’t want to get stuck on Raton Pass in a blizzard!

Carlos got on it for me. By Wednesday afternoon, he called back to say that El Paso could fit me in at 7:30 a.m. the next morning, Thursday. Yikes, I said. I’m 75 (almost 76). I cannot drive seven hours in the dark or split the trip to leave Albuquerque at 3:00 a.m. to get to El Paso on time. Anything else? I asked. I was willing to forfeit my flight to Oaxaca on Monday, December 13 to go later. He called back at 5:00 p.m. to tell me they could take me on Friday morning at 8 a.m. and that was the only option. I took it.

So, I scrambled fast to pack Wednesday night and leave Taos Thursday morning. I stopped at Walgreen’s to get passport photos and hit the road. Even behind a tanker truck on the mountain pass, I was able to get to Santa Fe in a bit over an hour, and then on to Albuquerque in record time, where I stopped to unload groceries with my son and daugher-in-law, have lunch with them, and get back on the road to El Paso, another four hours south. I arrived just as the western sun was a glimmer in the sky.

Martha’s Cafe, downtown El Paso.. Do you think I’m in Texas?

After spending the night, I arrived at the US Passport Agency downtown, fifteen minutes early. I was the second person in line. Nora greeted me. I did not have complete documentation. I could not find a birth certificate to prove US citizenship. I could not find the hard-copy of my 2006-2016 cancelled passport, only a photocopy. It was the 2016-2026 passport that was lost. I presented my 1996-2006 and my 1984-1994 cancelled passports, along with a certified marriage certificate and drivers license (these verified all the four names I have used in my lifetime). I also presented the necessary Forms DS-11 (new passport application) and DS-64 (lost or stolen passport form). Thankfully, the 1996-2006 cancelled passport was accepted as proof. I also needed to write a signed statement about my travel plans and produce a flight Record Locator Number and proof of upcoming air travel.

Nora sent me to Miguel who interviewed me, too, and accepted my $203 credit card payment. We talked about Oaxaca and mezcal. He asked me if I knew any Zapotec words when I told him I lived in Teotitlan del Valle, too. Just Tsak-Chi (hello) and Cheech-Bay-oo (to your health).

At 8:30 a.m. I was done and told to return at 1:00 p.m. to pick-up my new passport. The new passport was ready at 11:30 a.m I was on the road to return to Albuquerque at noon and arrived by 4:00 p.m. WHEW!

This is a shout-out to the amazing Passport Agency staff in El Paso. Victoria Ryan, owner of Casa Encantada in Patzcuaro said they were the best. Shout-out to Congresswoman Teresa Leger Fernandez, and to Lew Bortman who suggested contacting her, and to Carlos for all his help. And, to my trusty Subaru Forester that got me back safe and sound in blustery south desert crosswinds between El Paso and ABQ.

TIPS for Travel and Getting a New Passport

  • Start assembling your travel documents days before your scheduled departure. Thankfully, I did this and had enough time to go to Plan B.
  • Ask for advice from your network of friends.
  • When you get a passport photo, be sure you DO NOT smile and be sure to REMOVE YOUR GLASSES. They did not tell me do this at Walgreen’s, and the passport agent kindly retook my photo.
  • Fully print out and complete the DS-11 and DS-64 forms. DO NOT SIGN THEM. You need to sign in front of the agent.
  • Keep your passport tucked away in a safe place. Don’t keep your purse open (like I did — I’m sure it fell out somewhere in transit on November 11). Protect it like it was your most precious possession.
  • If you need help with a federal agency, contact your Congressional representative. They know how to help. It’s their job!
  • check your passport for expiration date. Most countries require at least 6 months remaining before expiration date in order to enter the country.

Thanks for listening and safe travels. See you in Oaxaca on Monday, December 13. Hallelujah!

Last Sale ‘Til Spring 2022: Oaxaca + Chiapas Textiles

This will be the last of my 2021 sales. I leave Taos, NM on my way back to Oaxaca on Decemberr 11. This sale features some outstanding pieces from Oaxaca and Chiapas, including blusas, ponchos, quechquemitls, ruanas, scarves and shawls. Please order and purchase by December 9 so I can get your pieces in the mail by December 10 (if not before)! There are 14 pieces — be sure to scroll down to see 4 BONUS pieces of jewelry from New Mexico I have included.

As I return to Oaxxaca, I’ll be writing about covid travel safety and precautions, protecting oneself from the new omicron variant, and other related issues. Meanwhile, I want to follow-up, too, on what I’ve been writing about how to visit Oaxaca with cultural sensitivity during covid. Tourism is so important to Mexico. It makes up most of the income of the informal economy (independent artisans). We don’t want to discourage safe tourism. We do want to discuss how to be a guest in indigenous villages where people are especially vulnerability. Only now is Mexico authorizing boosters for people over age 60. Vaccine access and administration is still a big issue. Most under age 30 are not vaccinated.

Related to this is a recent conversation I’ve had with Susan Coss of La Mezcalistas.My question is: How is mezcal changing the face of Oaxaca? We will be talking more about this, too. I’m still processing my experience being in Oaxaca during Day of the Dead.

So, if you want to bring a bit of Oaxaca and Chiapas home, consider making a purchase of these beautiful garments. Perfect holiday adornment — whether you celebrate quietly or with family and friends in an atmosphere of safety and respect. These make special, unforgettable gifts, too.

How to buymailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. I will send you a PayPal invoice (or use Zelle or Venmo if you prefer — just tell me in your email!) after you ID your choices. The invoice will include the cost of the garment + $12 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. I’ll be mailing from Taos, NM. Next day to the post office guaranteed if you order and buy before December 9. On December 11, I’m in transit to return to Oaxaca.

SOLD. #12422.1. This is the most precious of what I’m offering today. If you are a collector, don’t pass this one by. An amazing Egyptian cotton back strap loom woven huipil/blusa from San Juan Cotzocon in Oaxaca’s Sierra Mixe. A special and rare piece from Remigio Mestas. A black and white masterpiece. Measures 29” wide x 25-1/2” long. Original price $750. Yours for $495.
SOLD. #12421.2. Called a ruana, this is an open front and sides poncho woven in Chiapas on the backstrap loom. 100% sturdy cotton adorned with sparkly silver threads — very festive and tasteful. Hand-twisted fringes. If you like, drape the front flaps over your shoulders and around your neck for warm and fashion drama. Measures 40” wide (each weft is 20” wide) x 26” long. $175.
#12421.2 Back view.
SOLD #12421.3. This is a French knot blouse from Francisca in Aguacatenango, Chiapas. I consider this a “second” because the bodice embroidery is not as dense as I like. So, I’m offering it at 50% less than the cost of the other blouses from her that I have listed before. Size M-L. Measures 26” wide arm pit to arm pit. Embroidered part is 13-1/2” wide. 28” long. $65.
SOLD #12421.4. Back strap loom woven scarf by Carmen Rion, Mexican designer who works with Chiapas artisans. Measures 21-1/2” wide x 90” long. Wrap it double around your neck for added warm! A graphic masterpiece in juicy lime and black. $125
SOLD. #12421.5 From the Amusgos weavers of Xochistlahuaca, Guerrero, a rare hand-spun scarf with homegrown native green, coyuche and white cotton — woven on the back strap loom. Wear it or hang it! 10-1/2” wide x 62” long. $75
SOLD #12421.6 Black and White blouse with crocheted neck trim woven on the back strap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Gauze weave. Perfect for hot summers or layer it over a Heatech long-sleeve T for winter comfort. Size M. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75
SOLD. #12421.7 Colorful scarf from Zinacantan, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it at your neck. Guaranteed to perk up any outfit. 23” x 22”. Almost square! Handwoven on the backstrap loom. 100% cotton. $75
SOLD #12421.8 From Fabrica Sociale, a Chiapas cooperative, this poncho-blouse has all the fine detailing one would expect from a perfectly woven garment. The peach background shimmers because it is interwoven with contrasting pale yellow threads. The shoulders and side seams are closed with what is called a randa — very fine needlework. Measures 40” wide x 20” long. $85
#12421.9 Black, White and Red Neck Scarf hand-woven on the backstrap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it around your neck for pizzaz. Hand-tied tassles and fringes. Almost square. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75
#12421.10 A beautiful quechquemitl poncho in turquoise shimmering cloth from the studio of Remigio Mestas. 100% cotton. Drape and wear as a scarf, short poncho or general cover-up. Turn it so the points are in the front for an alternate look! Fashion for stripes going down back or across shoulders. Measures 36” wide x 22” long. $120
SOLD. BONUS: #12421.11 A pair of Santo Domingo Kewa Pueblo earrings with shell and precious stones inlaid on base of black jet. Dramatic. Mother of pearl, turquoise, jet, spiny oyster. Post backs. Made by famous artist Mary Tafoya who has been featured at the Santa Fe Folk Art Market and Indian Market, New Mexico. 3/4” wide at bottom. 2-1/2” long. $175
BONUS. #12421.12 Vintage pawn Navajo turquoise and silver cuff, likely from the 30’s or 40’s. Unmarked. Probably coin silver. Rare. 1-5/8” wide at widest part. Center stone measures 1” x 3/4”. This is a SIZE SMALL. Opening is 3/4” wide. Cuff on the inside measures 5” so the total is 5-3/4” I have seen similar in museum shops and Santa Fe galleries for $1,295. Yours for $650.
#12421.12. Side view. No chips or cracks. Excellent vintage condition.
#12421.12 Side view with stamp work and twisted metal bezel.
#12421.12 Inside view. Weighty but comfortable.
BONUS. #12421.13 Shell inlaid with jet, mother of pearl and turquoise. Measures 3” wide at widest point and 3-1/4” long. Chain not included. From Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo, between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico. $165
BONUS. #12421.14 Shell pendant with inlaid turquoise, mother of pearl, jet and sterling silver. By Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo jewelry maker Warren Nieto. 1-1/2” wide x 2-1/2” long. Chain not included. $125