Welcome to our new online store — Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters. We are sisters in real life, Norma Hawthorne and Barbara Beerstein. We are passionate collectors and supporters of artists and artisans who express the creativity and vitality of Oaxaca and Mexico. Textiles and folk art are our passion. Because of this, we fall in love with people and what they create along our journey. For us, it is as much about the people we connect with than what we are buying. Invariably, we usually come home with much more than what we need.
Today we feature huipils + blusas from Oaxaca, Chiapas and Puebla!
This is to your advantage! Our prices our reasonable. We ship fast. We have already made the purchase and paid the artist. We believe in compensating people fairly and immediately for the beauty they create. We offer the best quality because that is what we expect for ourselves.
Each week, starting today, we will list a few select pieces for sale on this blog! Look for the Artisan Sisters in your inbox.
Week 1 — Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters.
#1_51412, Collector Quality Huipil, Las Margaritas, Chiapas, handwoven, $195
Detail, Las Margaritas textile
#1_51412: This extraordinarily detailed huipil from the Mayan indigenous village of Las Margaritas, in the Los Altos (highlands) of Chiapas, is a finely woven piece of highest quality cotton cloth created on the backstrap loom. The design is integrated and woven into weft of the cloth; it is not embroidered. Size is ample and would fit U.S. size 14-18 comfortably. It has three webs across the front and three webs across the back, each securely hand-embroidered together. The huipil is 29″ wide across the front armpit to armpit and 30″ long from the shoulder seam.
Contact us first to make sure the item you want is still available. We accept PayPal and will send you an invoice after we calculate packing and shipping costs.
#2_51412: Blusa, Cuetzalan, Puebla, hand-embroidered bodice, $175
Detail of Cuetzalan blusa, #2_51412
#2_51412: Cuetzalan is in the Sierra Norte of the State of Puebla, four hours from the city of Puebla high in the mountains. The Artisan Sisters traveled there by public long-distance bus. The women there embroider intricate patterns of wildlife and flowers onto panels of cotton which become part of washable cotton blouses that are gently gathered across the chest. This blusa is a stunning, intricate design, with finely finished inside seams. The bodice stitches are really tiny. Every inch of the bodice and sleeve fabric is covered in handwork. Neckline and sleeves have lovely crocheted trim. Width armpit to armpit across the front is 25″. Length from shoulder seam to hem is 30.” Neckline opening is 13″ wide.
#3_51412: Blusa, San Vicente Coatlan, $85
Detail, blusa, San Vicente Coatlan
#3_51412: This Blusa (blouse) from San Vicente Coatlan, is one of the most beautiful I have seen in Oaxaca. It has lots of punto de cruz cross stitch patterning in multi-colors covering the entire bodice, extending out the shoulders, and trimming the sleeve edge. The back collar is also embellished with fine detail. I don’t know how they do it. The gathers are all done by hand, too. This is a KNOCK-OUT. Width from armpit to armpit across the front is 27″ wide. Length from shoulder seam to hem is 34″ long. Sleeves are 20″ long from the shoulder seam. Embroidered panels sewn onto manta cotton (washable).
Cuetzalan del Progreso Hosts Annual Fair, Puebla, Mexico
It’s sunrise in Cuetzalan del Progreso, Puebla, Mexico. I’m high in the mountains of the Sierra Norte where the indigenous language of Nahuatl is spoken. Beaded and embroidered blouses are predominant here. This is one of the original ten Pueblo Magico‘s and my second visit here. Definitely worth the return!
Selling handwoven and embroidered wool ponchos on the market steps
The triangular scarves and ponchos called huipiles (that I know as quechquemitls) are still woven on back strap looms. Local women walk barefoot on cobbled streets that climb and wind vertically through the village.
Sleeve detail, cotton embroidered blouse, Cuetzalan, Puebla
The women and girls are adorned with blouses featuring colorful figures of birds, barnyard animals and flowers, winding vines. Bodice ruffles are edged in turquoise, orange or red. Depending on their village of origin, the cap sleeve could be shirred or plain. Men wear traditional white shirts and pants, their feet protected by hand-hewn leather thongs, their heads covered in woven straw hats. Traditions are strong here.
Shirred cap sleeve with elaborate embroidery, ruffles, Cuetzalan, Puebla
I’m traveling with my sister Barbara, who I met in Mexico City earlier in the week. We joined up with friend Merry Foss in Cuetzalan for the annual Feria del Cafe, the raucous celebration of regional coffee. The coffee farms here are plentiful. We are at the right altitude and the beverage is delicious.
Finely embroidered bodice panels waiting to become a blouse, Pedro Martin Workshop
I’m using Sheri Brautigam’s guidebook, Textile Fiestas of Mexico, to find the textile artisan Pedro Martin at Taller Mazatzin known locally as Casa Rosa. The book has an ample section on Cuetzalan. To get to his village of Cuauhtamazaco, 30 minutes from town on a winding mountain road, Barbara and I hop into the back of a covered pick-up truck that is lined with passenger benches. In remote regions of Mexico, this transport mode serves as the major means of getting around. Cost is 8 pesos each.
Alfredo Pizarro (2nd from left) and crew at Pedro Martin Textile Workshop
Pedro, his brother Alfredo Pizarro, cousins and nephews, work magic on a back strap loom. They innovate the traditional huipil design to combine colors and patterns that yields a fine cotton gauze. For blouses that have the intricate, detailed embroidery, they source the bodice panels from only the finest needleworkers who live in remote villages and work only in 100% cotton.
I’m modeling an innovative two-tone huipil from Pedro Martin textile workshop
In the studio, it is the men who cut the patterns, sew and weave. Pedro Martin and his family participated in the Feria del Rebozo at the Franz Mayer Museum, Mexico City, last year.
Using local transportation in and around Cuetzalan, Puebla
Internet service here is intermittent. So, I’m writing before we go off to another village where Merry Foss started a textile cooperative seven years ago. She is doing an expo-venta tomorrow morning with a group of collectors from Los Amigos del Arte Popular de Mexico, who are also here for the fair. The women of Merry’s cooperative make extraordinary beaded blouses, called chakira. The beads originally came to Mexico from Europe and Asia as ballast on the Spanish galleons and the China Poblana shirt was born.
Embellished huipil (quechquemitl) with lots of bling, Cuetzalan, Puebla
Most of the embroidery and beadwork around town is made for the tourist market and is of average quality. No fine needlework, no finished seams. You see the finest work being worn by the women themselves. The trick is to be able to locate the best of what is made. You can find a few pieces in the artisan market. (See Sheri’s book for details.) But, I’ve been asking the ladies, Where can I get one like yours?
Vendors on the steps leading up to the market, Cuetzalan, Puebla
As the coffee fair started, I wandered to the church courtyard beckoned by the waft of copal incense. I met a group of women gathered waiting for a celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The majordoma, or leader of the group, kept the copal incense burner alive with intermittent puffs of breath on the burning coals.
The majordoma turns to smile at me. I made a 100 peso contribution to refrescos.
How to get to Cuetzalan: It’s a six-hour bus ride from Mexico City on ADO or Primera Plus. Almost four hours from Puebla on Via. Buy your tickets in advance. You can’t do this online! Sorry.
Where to stay: We are happy at Casa de Piedra, a clean, lovely hotel set down the steep hill from the plaza. It looks like a stone fortress. Great breakfast and views.
Taller Mazatzin, Pedro Martin Concepcion, tel: 52-1-233-759-3992. Get the colectivo truck at the station on the street behind the church.
Like this:
Comments Off on Cuetzalan del Progreso Hosts Annual Fair, Puebla, Mexico
Posted in Cultural Commentary, Textiles, Tapestries & Weaving, Travel & Tourism
Tagged back strap loom, beads, blouses, bus, Cuetzalan, Embroidery, huipil, Merry Foss, Mexico, Pedro Martin, Puebla, quechquemitl, Taller Mazatzin, textile fiestas, textiles, tourism, travel, weaving