
Carina Santiago Bautista prepares desayuno (breakfast)
I landed on Saturday and have been breathless ever since. After two nights and days in Oaxaca City, visiting friends, shopping, sightseeing, and walking up and down hills, we have now settled into the pueblo of Teotitlan del Valle. Here it is fresh, calm, peaceful, a rural village a mere 30 minutes outside the city and a different world, a quieter pace. Stephen and I decided to have breakfast at La Tierra Antigua, the restaurant operated by Cari Santiago Bautista and her husband Pedro Montano Lorenzo. We hopped on a tuk-tuk (moto taxi) and landed in paradise where their stainless steel, commercially equipped kitchen is the foundation for preparing delicious local foods. We ordered more than we could possibly consume for the full-taste experience and Stephen asked for “para llevar” — to go.

Fruit plate with homemade jam at La Tierra Antigua

Cari preparing homemade hot Oaxaca chocolate

Vegetarian omelet
Cari’s vegetarian omelet uses two eggs (fresh from her own hens), stuffed with quesillo (Oaxaca string cheese), salsa fresca (tomatoes, peppers, onions) plus sauteed onions, served with a side of nopales (cooked cactus) — very high in vitamin C, and refried beans. Stephen had his with chilequiles (dried tortillas soaked in black bean sauce).

Cari with basket of fresh eggs from her hens

Organic corn, dried on the cob, ready for planting
Behind Cari and Pedro’s home is a large tract of land that they will plant with corn, squash and beans — the traditional Zapotec milpas. The nutrients from the roots of each plant give just the right mix of fertilization needed for an outstanding crop.
This is planting season. The earth is rich and fertile. The farmers are in their fields, oxen yoked with ancient wood to plow the fields into deep furrows. Along wooden rod extends from the yoke to make the furrows. One can smell the history, the steamy loamy earth. In the distance, a curl of cloud embraces a mountain peak.
Everything that Cari serves is organic, include the incredible whole bean coffee she grinds that comes from Hidalgo. We had three cups and were definitely ready for the day. Breakfast lingered and the multi-course meal plus conversation took about three hours — a luxury where we live, part of life here. One reason that we love it so much in Oaxaca!
Restaurant Tierra Antigua, Av. Juarez #175, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca. Tel (951) 166-6160, email: zapotecweavers@hotmail.com
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Penland School Cooks in Oaxaca
We will be going back in time this week. A few days ago our participants from Penland School of Crafts gathered at Casa de los Sabores, the cooking school operated by chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo.
Our menu focused on mezcal including a flaming skewered pineapple and shrimp dish that went up in flames before we ate it. The pineapple chunks were soaked in mezcal so the natural sugars ignited instantly. They were accompanied by a salad featuring tiny tomatillos that we ate raw.
Pilar has been preparing great food for a long time. Her La Olla Restaurant is well known in the city for using organic ingredients that are artfully prepared. Because our study tour focuses on Oaxaca arts and artisanry, food is an important ingredient in the Oaxaca mix.
Pilar is also very knowledgeable about the artesenal process of cultivating and distilling mezcal, too. Before we sat down to the meal we participated in preparing, we enjoyed a four-flight mezcal tasting that began with young espadin. She explained the different varietals, aging process and the rising cost of the smokey beverage based on escalating international interest.
First, it’s important to smell. Then, take a first sip and let it go down your throat slowly. At the end of your drink, suck on an orange slice dipped in worm salt (sal de gusano) for a perfect finish.
After the memelitas with squash blossoms and queso fresco, and after the chicken with mole amarillo, we ended with an incredible flan.
With a beautiful table and an array of complex tastes, we were more than satisfied. Oh, and I forgot to mention a shopping trip to the Mercado de la Merced before the class started to pick up essential ingredients.
I work with local experts and guides to put together an unusual and intimate view of Oaxaca, her art, food and culture. I am not a tour guide but an expert at award-winning university program development. If you organization has interest in a program such as this one, please contact me.
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Food & Recipes, Photography, Travel & Tourism, Workshops and Retreats
Tagged Casa de los Sabores, class, cooking, cuisine, culture, food, La Olla Restaurant, markets, Mexico, Oaxaca, organic, Penland School of Crafts, Pilar Cabrera, tour, workshop