Monthly Archives: March 2012

Temblor–Earthquake in Oaxaca, Mexico–7.6 on Richter Scale

First, I thought it was the wind.  The laminated plastic cover over the second story of the patio starts to blow and shake.  I sit here writing and catching up on emails.  The ground begins to quiver and then the strong concrete infrastructure of the house begins to sway.  Then, it registered: an earthquake.

As I run down the alley and out to the street, the only thing I can think of is to get out of the way of the brick and concrete walls and ceiling that surround me.  Even as I run, I can feel the walls trembling.  Then, I get to the middle of street, look around and see that life goes on as usual.  My neighbor pokes his head out of his second story window and says he thinks the shake-rattle-and-roll lasted seven minutes.  I’m not sure it was that long, but this was a strong one, he says.  He leaves to go call his son in Oaxaca. A man on a bicycle rides by, stops to talk, says it was very strong here, continues on down the road.

I’ll check back on the magnitude and let you know!  I think it was at least 5.0 on the Richter scale.

Just in via Twitter:  7.6 magnitude on USGS Richter Scale.

I guess this is why they build houses here with deep rock foundations using giant boulders.  The concrete walls (not fragile stick construction) seemed to withstand the temblor without a crack!

 

Why Learning Spanish Makes You Smarter

Learning a second language like Spanish or any other language for that matter, makes the brain nimble! according to psychologists and language researchers. I liked this article published in The New York Times, March 18, 2012 Studies show that learning a foreign language as an adult will stave off dementia and Alzheimer’s.  It’s like exercise for the mind.

My stretch this month is to continue to use past tenses as I expand my Spanish vocabulary. It’s very helpful to step outside the English-speaking expat community  comfort zone and our recent trip to the Sierra Norte offered Just that.

The challenge for any immigrant — like me living in Mexico or Mexicans living in the U.S. — is to learn a new language without giving up the mother tongue and cultural identity.  This is especially true for second generation immigrants who want to assimilate  I think about the U.S. school system and the anti-immigrant voices saying “learn English or go back where you came from.”

Hopefully, articles like these will increase our understanding of and appreciation for the richness that being bilingual offers for the individual and for society.  I would think we want to promote smarter and healthier people.

Oaxaca Hosts Malia Obama, U.S. President’s Daughter

Oaxaca Times reports that Malia Obama, 13-year old daughter of U.S. President Barak Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama is in Oaxaca, Mexico, this weekend!

She arrived on a commercial United Airlines jet direct to Oaxaca from Houston, and will visit archeological sites and craft villages.  Even with 25 Secret Service Agents at her disposal, she would not be here if it weren’t safe.

I’m heading out to the Tlacolula market today.  Not likely she will be there, since it would be difficult to maintain security among the throngs of shoppers, but who knows?

Thanks to follower Elliot Stoller for alerting me!

 

King of Mezcals: El Cortijo’s Pechuga de Pollo

You be the judge!  Is Pechuga de Pollo (breast of the chicken) distilled by El Cortijo in Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, the best of the best?  At 1,500 pesos (that’s $118 USD at today’s 12.65 exchange rate) for a 750 ml bottle in fine Mexican restaurants and far more in the U.S.A. (so I’m told by my in-the-know brother-in-law), this organic mezcal is a knock-your-socks-off fruity drink with a hint of poultry earthiness.  It packs a wallop at 38% alcohol content. This is a sipping drink, not a slug it back, down-it-in-one-gulp followed by a beer chaser beverage.

How do I know?  During our last evening in Puebla this week, before my return to Oaxaca and her return to Santa Cruz, California, Barbara and I went back to El Mural de los Poblanos where we love what Chef Lizett Galicia Solis does with seasonal and indigenous food (click on her name and see the makings of Pipian Verde).

After a satisfying and healthy sunflower sprouts salad mixed with walnuts, sunflower seeds, tomatoes, peeled green apples, garnished with avocado and dressed with a lime-olive oil vinaigrette;

after Mole de Olla, a beef shank stew simmered with carrots, onions, zucchini, green beans (vegetables so fresh and crunchy that they tasted just picked), epazote, and other mysterious local herbs;

after the Regalo de Quetzal, a crusty Mexican chocolate cake oozing creamy goodness accompanied by an intensely vanilla homemade ice cream that we shared, we took a deep sigh and finished off our one glass each of an Argentine malbec — a good, basic wine.  (The three-course meal with wine came to 450 pesos [$36USD] per person including tip.)

Across the restaurant, the Captain Enrique Garcia was setting up for a four-flight mezcal tasting.  When we asked him about what was on the tasting menu, he brought over two shot glasses filled with Pechuga de Pollo and gave us a sample.

Zowie!  I think I flew back to our lovely little Hotel Real Santander, which was around the block.  Barbara wanted to buy a bottle on the spot to take home to George and then thought better of it.

El Cortijo web site indicates the retail price for a bottle is 650 pesos.  Of course, that’s in Mexico.  If you can find it in your wine/liquor store, give your own mezcal tasting.  They only distill 300 bottles a year. (Another great reason to visit Oaxaca!)  Fortunately, Santiago Matatlan is 15 minutes from where I live so I had to buy two mezcal shot glasses at the last Talavera workshop I visited, just in case.

 

 

Is the U.S. Media Complicit? Feeding the Fear Frenzy About Travel to Mexico

We are having an on-going discussion among friends who live in Mexico and in the U.S. about whether the news media in the U.S. is complicit in creating fear about travel to Mexico.

On March 18, 2012, The New York Times published a story about kidnappings in Matamoros, that borders the U.S.  The headline was: “In Mexico, a Kidnapping Ignored as Crime Worsens.”  I wrote to Damien Cave, The New York Times Bureau Chief in Mexico City, responsible for the story, complaining about the headline.  Here is our series of replies, most recent one first:

It’s an accurate headline and impunity is a problem all over Mexico not just in Matamoros. If you don’t like that fact take it up with the Mexican gov not me. I live here too – I get your complaint and I’m writing a travel story about Mazunte soon – but the bottom line is Mexico needs to fix its judicial system. Now. (see my footnote below**)
Damien Cave
The New York Times

Enviado desde mi iPhone

On 18/03/2012, at 11:49 a.m., Norma Hawthorne <normahawthorne@mac.com> wrote:
Sorry, Damien.  I don’t agree with you.  Using Mexico in the headline instead of Matamoros implies that the story is universally applied to all of Mexico.  As the NY Times bureau chief, you should do better.  And, all readers are “not smart enough.”  You are the 5th estate.  It is your responsibility to educate not inflame.  Norma Hawthorne
On Mar 18, 2012, at 01:41 PM, Damien Cave <cave.damien@gmail.com> wrote:
Oaxaca has a 99.74% impunity rate – so while crime is not as epidemic there as elsewhere the crimes that do happen are just as unlikely to lead to punishment. I love Oaxaca but it is not place devoid of Mexicos larger problems. Our readers are also smart enough to know that my story is the story of one city not the country and if you had taken the time to look at other stories I’ve written (look up my story about immigration to Oaxaxa) you would understand that as well. Damien Cave
The New York Times  Enviado desde mi iPhoneOn 18/03/2012, at 11:29 a.m., <ordercs@nytimes.com> wrote:
Email: normahawthorne@mac.com
URL:In Mexico, As Kidnapping Ignored Crimes Worsen
Comments: Damien, this headline is incorrect and irresponsible sensational journalism. It implies that kidnapping and crime is rampant throughout Mexico. This story is localized in Matamoros, a border town. What you are promoting is fear of travel to Mexico. Most of Mexico, including Oaxaca where I live, is safe. PLEASE revisit your approach and those of other NYTimes reporters to make sensationalized headlines. It is poor reporting and does a disservice to accuracy about travel to Mexico. Sincerely, Norma Hawthorne, oaxacaculture.com

On March 14, 2012, a CNN web page published a report with the headine, “No End to Mexico Violence.”

Friend and photography instructor Frances “Sam” Robbins, who teaches our Oaxaca Photography Workshop–Market Towns and Artisan Villages, responded:

“It would be so much better if your headlines specified WHERE in Mexico the violence is happening.  There are still wonderful, very safe places for people to live, to visit and to enjoy.  Referring to the whole of Mexico in a headline with the word violence continues to build a sense of fear for the entire country.  That’s just wrong.”

Perhaps as a result of Sam’s comment, CNN changed it’s headline banner to read:
Violence in Juarez ‘not going away’.  Sam emailed me to say she was thankful that someone on the editorial staff was responsive.  But that’s not always the case.

My sister Barbara and I just completed a week-long, public bus trip around the states of Puebla and Tlaxcala.  I traveled from Oaxaca on the ADO bus — solo.  She landed in the Mexico City airport from San Francisco, California, got on an Estrella Roja bus to Puebla and met me there.  The next day, we were the only gringas on the bus to Cuetzalan.  From there, we bought a one-way ticket to Huamantla, where we transferred to a collectivo to Tlaxcala.  In Tlaxcala, we hired a taxi driver on the street to take us on a round trip to a Olmec archeological site.  The next day we traveled back to Puebla on a local collectivo bus.  Again, we were the only foreigners.

Never, during this travel experience, did we feel threatened, at risk, or in fear of our safety or security.  Local people were always helpful and wanting to give us directions or asking if we needed advice. When it rained and the streets were slippery in Cuetzalan, men came up to offer their hand to help us across the street or down a steep stairway.  Their extended arms are a symbol of welcome and warmth.

The Washington Post published a December 2011 feature on where it is safe to travel in Mexico and where it isn’t.  This is a MUST read.

So, I’ve been thinking about why it is that there is so much fear by Estadounidenses (people from the United States) about traveling to Mexico, beyond what might be reasonable or rational.

All your comments about this important issue are welcome.

**Footnote:  Sweeping generalizations tend to grip our sensibilities and bypass reasonable thinking. We forget that random, isolated incidences of violence occur everywhere.  Our own judicial system has broken down, too. I think of all the criminals out on parole because the prison system doesn’t work, is overloaded, and the parole system is lax. Case in point: The murder of Eve Carson, student body president at UNC Chapel Hill by a convict out on parole who shouldn’t have been.