On Thursday, we spent the day outside of San Cristobal de Las Casas, on the road to Tenejapa village, Romerillo Maya cemetery and then to the home of Maruch and her son Tesh in the Chamula district of Chiapas.
First stop, Tenejapa for the Thursday market and textile cooperative
Cynthia with Maria Meza, coop manager
Taking registrations now for 2019 Chiapas Textile Study Tour.
Walking along the village market street, Gail spots a huipil hanging inside a shop
Look inside doorways to see textiles are hanging from the rafters
Small doorways open from the street into hardware stores, pharmacies, bakeries, tienditas (little stores), dry goods suppliers. The inside is often obscure. Sometimes, there are textile treasures — hand embroidery, traditional clothing made on back strap looms — hanging on clothes lines. You have to look for them.
Out on the street the market is a crush of people, fruit, veggies, meat and more
Tenejapa. Still remote enough that foreign visitors are an anomaly. Children and adults are curious, shy and distant. I saw about six Europeans in addition to our group during this market day.
Market day in Tenejapa means handmade textiles for sale, too.
The population of Tenejapa is 99.5% indigenous. About 99.8% speak an indigenous language, and almost 53% speak only their native language and do not speak Spanish. Health care services and educational opportunities are limited. Maya culture and traditional folk practices are strong.
She is minding the store and watching the passersby.
The village celebrates Carnavale with pre-Lenten festivities on February 15
Traditional dress of a Tenejapa man, once commonplace. Now for ceremonies only.
Adults and children participate. Mayordomos and their wives observe.
Next we stop at Romerillo cemetery to understand Maya burial practices
The Maya practice syncretism, a blend of mystical pre-Hispanic beliefs and Spanish Catholicism. Mostly, they are spiritual and keep their connection to ancient traditions.
The Maya cross represents the four cardinal points, a pre-Hispanic symbol
The Romerillo cemetery is on a grand hill overlooking a valley. Wood planks cover graves so that the living can communicate with and ask advice from the dead.
Evangelization was easier for the Spanish; the symbol existed before they arrived.
After lunch, we take a dirt road to rural Chamula territory to meet Maruch
Maruch and her family raise their own sheep, shear and wash the wool, card and spin. Sheep are sacred, raised for their fleece and not for food.
Carding, hand-spinning with the malacate and weaving on the back strap loom
Join us for the 2019 Chiapas Textile Study Tour. We are accepting registrations now.
Hand carding local sheep wool for spinning
Using the malacate drop spindle to spin wool and prepare it for weaving.
We are an hour away from San Cristobal de Las Casas, but it feels as if time stands still here and we are standing in a place that could have been 500 years ago. Isolation preserves culture, but it also marginalizes native peoples.
Lanita models a furry capelet woven by Maruch
Sheep wool skirts and capelets are made to look like a furry animal, repel moisture and keep people warm. There is no heat and it’s chilly at 7,000 feet altitude in February.
At cooperative Huellas Que Trascienden, Lanita and Cynthia
We finished off the day with a visit to a new cooperative in the city that names the weaver of each garment with a featured photo on the hang tag. Recognition is finally coming to the women who do the work! We did our best to support them.
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Tribute to Mothers: Feliz Dia de la Madre
Red roses for love, a Mother’s Day Gift to you
First, a bouquet of red roses for all mothers, daughters and foster mothers. For the women in our lives who give us strength, courage and determination to stand up with shoulders back, head high. For the women who came before us to open the path and show us the way. Saludos y felicidades, siempre.
Mother’s Day, dedicated to my own mother, Dorothy Schafitz Beerstein, b. February 14, 1916, d. November 15, 2015, and the remarkable women of Mexico.
Embroidered story rebozo by Teofila Servin Barriga, Patzcuaro, Michoacan
Rosa, center, and her nieces, Magdalenas Aldama
In Yochib, Oxchuc,talented weaver with impaired mobility, limited health care access
The girls who will become women, learning from the matriarch
The young women, keepers of tradition and culture
To those of us who explore and discover and support the makers
Cousins Maya and Alicia in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
The generations: Grandma Juana, Baby Luz, and Mama Edith
Grower of native corn, Mixe region of Oaxaca
My own mother, two years before her death at age 99
For everything hand-made, here’s to the makers!
The women pottery makers of San Marcos Tlapazola
Intricately embroidered blouse, San Bartolome Ayautla, 8 months to make
To Lila Downs, who tells stories in song, with compassion
Frida Kahlo Calderon, our muse and heroine
Susie in Chiapas, thanks to the adventurers who visit
To the women who love and give care
Deceased potter Dolores Porras, inspiration for Atzompa
To Margarita, the basket weaver, Benito Juarez Market
Thank you to all the women who make a difference just by being you!
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Photography
Tagged Mexico, Mother's Day, photographs