Tag Archives: postaweek2011

Mexico Travel Safety: What Tourists Say

Gotta share this! The Mexico Taxi Project! Even though this video is created and paid for by the Mexican Tourism Board, I think you’ll see the truth and sincerity behind the message. Tourists from L.A., Chicago and New York were asked about their experiences in Mexico as they returned to the U.S. from vacation. Oaxaca fits into the same category as Los Cabos San Lucas and Tulum and Puerto Vallarta — SAFE! My son and daughter-in-law are going to Tulum (flying into Cancun) between Christmas and New Years. Have a great time, I say. I know they will.

Stuart Elliott, NY Times business/media writer says (November 21, 2011) …

Although the name of the campaign is the “Mexico Taxi Project,” there are no Mexican taxicabs involved. All the videos, which can be watched on television, as well as online at mexicotaxiproject.com, take place in the United States, not Mexico.

The taxis in question are actually black cars, giving rides home to tourists who have just arrived back in this country after taking vacations in Mexico. There are hidden cameras inside the cars, which film the tourists answering questions from the “drivers” about their trips.

The people involved in creating and sponsoring the campaign told me they decided to film the ads in the United States because they believed they would get more honest, forthcoming comments that way than if the ads were filmed in Mexico.

“It was important for the conversations to take place once the visitors were home,” said Gerardo Llanes, chief marketing officer at the Mexico Tourism Board, because if they were filmed in Mexico they might have felt they would “have to be nice and polite.” He offered this comparison: “If I go to your house and don’t like the furniture, I wouldn’t say it.”

When Indigenous Oaxaca Dress Becomes Inspiration for High Fashion

Years ago I discovered Mexican designer Carla Fernandez and her sweet little book (out of print) that taught me the difference between indigenous and Western clothing design.  Rather than form fitting construction with darts, waistbands, zippers, buttons and collars, pre-European style clothing of the Americas is made for easy fit and comfort.  The emphasis is on the weaving techniques and designs integrated into the fabric or embroidered rather than the cut.

[Left:  Odillon, owner of Arte Amusgo, a cooperative on Calle 5 de Mayo in the historic center of Oaxaca, holds an intricately handwoven huipil. The pattern is woven, not embroidered, as part of the cloth. This one sells for about 7,000 pesos.]

Indigenous clothing is flowing, soft, loose, relaxed.  Slip-it-on-0ver-the-head and you are dressed!  The dresses, or huipiles, are made as (more or less) one size fits (almost) all!  Patterns are rectangles, triangles and squares sewn together often with an intricate crochet stitch that can be as beautiful as the cloth.

Indigenous Fashion Inspires Mexican Runways  Now, an Associated Press story picked up by the New York Times tells how Mexico City contempo-Mex designers like Lydia Lavin are incorporating indigenous clothing design elements into high-end fashion.  (Click on her name to see the runway models.] Price tags are upwards of $1,000USD. (One can buy a lovely Oaxaca huipil for under $100USD.  The weaver may get 40-70%.)  Of course the look is entirely different! In Lydia Lavin’s work,  you will recognize bits and pieces of indigenous textile in the couture. [Our friend Ana Paula Fuentes, director of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, adds to the story’s commentary.]

[Left:  Women at the Guelaguetza wear indigenous dress, all handwoven, from the Alta Mixteca, in Oaxaca.]

 

 

 

Is this an issue of Fair Trade or Fair Game?

Ultimately, it is the consumer who must decide if the indigenous artisan is being fairly compensated for her/his work or role in clothing production.   We all make choices.  I constantly struggle with the question about what is authentic, since adaptation is part of evolution and creativity.  Yet, our choices may be clearer when offered a high-fashion knock-off that incorporates synthetic fabric, is made on a commercial rather than back-strap loom, and perhaps is made in China!

[Left: Santa Fe, NM textile designer Sheri Brautigam describes huipil designs on display at Los Baules, the shop owned by Remigio Mestas on Macedonio Alcala in the Los Danzantes restaurant patio.]

Pablo Neruda 2011 Prize Finalist Inspired at Oaxaca Women’s Creative Writing + Yoga Retreat

Poet Katie Kingston was selected as a 2011 Finalist for the Pablo Neruda Poetry Prize for her poem written during our Women’s Creative Writing and Yoga Retreat in Oaxaca.  Katie gave us permission to publish the poem and to share her workshop experience (below).

Woman Resting

Teotitlán del Valle, Mexico

 I have been waiting days to move

to the hammock, to drift

beneath the white portal into a white

dream delineated by black

ink.

Above me, the green tree

full of green grapefruit and a cluster

of yellow birds. My sky sways

with palm leaves and wingspan.

Footsteps approach

like a lullaby.

In the distance a child

wails blue syllables and the rooster

releases another qui-qui-ri-qui-qui.

I sketch their sounds on paper

alongside the corrugated bray

of burro.

The hammock swings

in the key of G. I am surrounded by tuning

forks and pomegranate blossoms.

I call this place

Granada.

                     Lull is the word that comes

to mind. Lull says the wood smoke, lull

says the sheet on the line, lull says

the loom’s shuttle tapping wool strands

of indigo and cochineal

into the snug fit

of weft.

Sometimes the name for gold

dye escapes me, so I put down the pen, feel

the rhythm of my body as if I too

am a leaf lulled by breeze,

as if I too am held to the branch

by a nub of stem.

 

–Katie Kingston, Finalist in the 2011 Pablo Neruda Prize,

First Published in Nimrod International Journal, Vol.55 Titled What Time Is It?

 

What Katie Kingston says about the Women’s Creative Writing and Yoga Retreat:

Immersion in a new culture with a group of talented and inspiring women was definitely the catalyst for this poem, “Woman Resting.”  One day I found myself resting in the hammock, and while letting its hypnotic sway take over, I experienced the flooding of the five senses in this magical place, Teotitlán del Valle. I was motivated to write this poem, to try in one small way to capture the experience of this slower paced lifestyle. I haven’t experienced such a “lull” since childhood.

Teotitlán del Valle is all about weaving; indigo and cochineal dye hangs in natural wool skeins from the roof top lines. It fact, it seems that everything hangs from the sky in Teotitlan: the drying threads, the hammocks, the pomegranates, the grapefruits, the laundry, and even the sounds: birds, burros, roosters, pigs.  The experience at the Oaxaca Woman’s Creative Writing and Yoga Retreat was enhanced by the meditative atmosphere that allows for interpretation with a gathering of women who believe in writing as a spiritual plunge into the unknown.

When I returned to the United States, I submitted the poem to Nimrod International Journal’s 2011 Pablo Neruda Prize for Poetry, www.nimrod@utulsa.edu, where it placed as a finalist and was published in the Nimrod Award Issue titled, “What Time Is It?”  Other good news followed. I submitted my manuscript, What Does Lorca Own?, which had been reviewed at the conference by Professor Robin Greene, our instructor.  We discussed the manuscript in depth, and I sent out the revision to several competitions.  It placed as a finalist in the 2011 Idaho Prize for Poetry, www.losthorsepress.org, and will be published in October 2012 by Lost Horse Press (distributed by the University of Washington  Press, Seattle) under the new title Translating Clouds.

No writer ever writes alone, and I have many individuals to thank for their support including Norma Hawthorne, Robin Greene, Susan Florence, and the other talented participants of the 2011 Oaxaca Women’s Writing Retreat.  For me, the experience was a success, giving me the time to write new poems, forge new friendships, and experience a new culture, where I felt welcome and safe as I hiked the village roads and spoke to goat herders, children learning English, and women who smiled back.

kingston@wildblue.net

www.katiekingston.com

Toto la Momposina Adds Caribbean-Latin Flavor to Lila Downs Concert

The hot band Toto la Momposina (click on this link to hear their great music) from Colombia, South America, opened for Lila Downs last night at the Auditorio Guelaguetza in Oaxaca. Lead singer Sonia Bazanta Vides, who has been dazzling audiences with her voice for over 50 years, announced this was her last concert (if I understood correctly).

 

Front row seats meant a ringside treat to the dancing, hip swaying, and throb of the bass from the speakers.  The beat was definitely cumbia, salsa, tango and with Afro-Caribbean drum accompaniments.  Totally a hand-clapping, toe tapping experience.  Exuberant and joyful.

 

Sonia’s voice was only equal to the energetic dancing by the performer in the bright floral blue, yellow and red dress.  Both offered visual insight into the music and dance traditions of Colombia.  Plus, the band included African and indigenous instruments — flutes, drums, and rattles — that added spice to the performance along with the electric guitars.

 

 

Nominated for a Latin Grammy, Sonia Bazanta Vides has performed for over 50 years throughout the world, representing the rich and complex music of Colombia and especially the islands where she was raised.  She studied music, voice and composition at the Universidad de Colombia and at the Sorbonne in Paris.  In 1983, she accompanied Gabriel Garcia Marquez to accept the Nobel Prize in Literature.

Teotitlan del Valle Celebrates Day of the Dead–Photography Expedition

In the Oaxaca village of Teotitlan del Valle, Dia de los Muertos is serene, low-key and beautiful. Here, it is celebrated at the cemetery on all Soul’s Day, November 2.  At home, families light the copal incense burner to help the spirits of their loved ones find their way back to the grave.  Then, they gather for a meal of traditional mole negro with chicken, rice, plenty of tortillas, beer and mezcal.  At about 5:30 p.m. they make their way to the panteon for mass and to sit with the spirits of their ancestors.

The altar is a central part of each home. During Muertos, visitors come with offerings to the dead:  chocolate, beer, candles, mescal, and bread. Photos of the loved ones who have died are prominently displayed along with their favorite foods.

The copal incense burner is a mystical part of the celebration.  The church bells toll exactly at 3 p.m.  Federico lights the incense.  He and Dolores tend the fire to make certain it doesn’t go out, using a hand-held fan woven with plant fibers.  The copal flames, aroma of incense, and smoke create a space of reverence and reflection.

Villagers come to the cemetery with brooms, buckets of flowers, the favorite fruits, nuts, and beverages of their loved ones, and begin to clean the grave sites and decorate them.  Then they may sit in meditative prayer.  Or, entire extended families may gather with a case of beer and the evening for them is festive and celebratory.  The range of emotions in this small space is huge:  from laughter and music to tears and keening.

 

There was far less ambient light and fewer candles at the Teotitlan del Valle cemetery than there was in Xoxocotlan.   So it was very dark — difficult conditions for night photography even when I opened the aperture to its widest setting with the camera speed to 1600.  I switched to manual mode but couldn’t see clearly through the viewfinder to even see if the shot was in focus!  This was the best I could do!

Grainy and fuzzy.  But don’t you love that purple sky?  It was pitch black out and I could barely see those figures.  Hopefully this gives you the sense of place.

Here, at the entrance to the cemetery the street light provided illumination on this old wooden cross.

 

 

And the tuba offered a mirror onto the world along with a self-portrait.

 

 

Neighborhoods have their own altars positioned at crossroads where people travel most. A green vase from Atzompa holds fresh marigolds, the aromatic flower of this season.

On November 2, all our our Day of the Dead Photography Expedition participants spent the day with a host family, shared the meal, and then accompanied them to the cemetery.  Tonight, we have invited our host families to our Best of Week show that will feature photographs from Teotitlan del Valle.