Tag Archives: Puebla

Three Days in Puebla, Mexico with Mari Seder

Puebla City of Angels—February 24, 25, 26, 27, $495 per person

Either add this on to your Oaxaca art workshop adventure or meet us in Puebla!  If you are adding on, you will travel by First Class Bus from Oaxaca to Puebla, Mexico, home of Talavera tile, the Mexican Revolution, and Mole Poblano. Your three-night stay includes lodging in a lovely hotel, guided visits to Talavera studios, extraordinary museums, Cholula archeological site and the incredible Sunday antique/flea market, plus more.

  

Puebla is Mexico’s fifth largest city–cosmopolitan without being overwhelming.  It is relaxed, accessible, and easily experienced in a few days. Known as the ‘City of the Angels’” or Angelopolis, Puebla, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was founded in 1531 as a purely colonial Spanish city built from the ground up—not on top of an existing indigenous site as the trade crossroads between the port of Veracruz and Mexico City.  More than 5,000 of the Baroque-designed buildings date mostly from the 16th century and covered in extraordinary Talavera tile.

Uriarte Talavera Vases

Puebla is also about shopping! The highlight is the Talavera pottery and Mari knows the best stores. But there are many other local crafts: Tree of Life clay figures, bark paper paintings, and unique onyx and marble sculptures. You can find these and much more at the traditional markets, the stalls that line Puebla’s beautiful plazas, and at the Sunday flea and antique market.

Chiles en Nogada Original to Puebla

Puebla is known throughout Mexico for its excellent cuisine, a blend of pre-Hispanic, Arabic, French and Spanish influences.  There are many good restaurants at very affordable prices, and we’ll be visiting them!

We’ll also go to Cholula, an indigenous village just outside Puebla with the world’s widest ancient pyramid Quetzalcoatl. The Spanish built the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Remidios with its amazing 24-carat gold basilica atop the pyramid.  On a clear day you can see snow-capped Popocatepetl, an active volcano, showing off his powerful plume.

Nuestra Senora de los Remidios

Our stops will include:

  • Antique market & Barrio del Artista
  • Museo Amparo
  • Talavera galleries and shops
  • Tonantzintla’ Templo de Santa Maria
  • Templo San Francisco in Acatepec
  • La Purificadora Hotel, an architectural wonder, designed by Ricardo and Victor Legorreta

Transportation to Puebla:  Puebla is a convenient stop-over on your way back to the U.S. We will take a first class bus from Oaxaca to Puebla (4-hour trip) on the afternoon of February 24.  On Monday, February 27, we will bus in the early morning from Puebla on first class bus (complete with Wi-Fi) directly to the international terminal at Mexico City’s Benito Juarez Airport (2-hour trip).  Be sure to reserve your return air travel from Mexico City to the U.S. with departure time no earlier than late morning (11 a.m. or later).  Bus tickets will be at your own expense and can be purchased near the Zocalo in Oaxaca city.

Includes lodging and guided visits.  Meals, transportation to Puebla and to local sites, and entrance fees are at your own expense.

There will be a few slots reserved for travelers who only want to participate in the Puebla trip.  Contact Norma if this interests you!

Gallery

The McAllister Family Whirlwind Winter Holiday in Mexico

Walter and Annette McAllister took their family to Mexico during the Christmas holidays.  Walter had subscribed to Oaxaca Cultural Navigator and did his homework.   I’ve never met them, but Walt, a chef, would write me periodically with questions or comments.  … Continue reading

Puebla Textiles at the Arts Cooperative “Siuamej”

So far, I have discovered only one shop in Puebla city that sells high quality indigenous, handwoven textiles.  Siuamej is a cooperative representing over 16 groups of women who work in local crafts from the various municipalities of the state of Puebla.  The sales help contribute to the well-being of more than 600 indigenous women scattered throughout the mountainous region of Puebla beyond this major city.

Most of the pieces are wool and woven on back-strap looms.  They are hand-embroidered with intricate designs of birds, flowers and geometric shapes and patterns.  The remote mountain villages are cold in winter and wool is a necessity.  Few pieces are reformatted for the “tourist” market, and as a consequence can be considered “traditional.”

Puebla weaving and embroidery style

Contemporary pieces are not likely to be woven with cloth colored with natural dyes.  The piece below is an antique and made of wool colored with natural dyes.  It is a riot of primary color and intricately embroidered.  The price was 5,000 pesos — a bit too rich for my pocketbook!  But hopefully, someone who knows its value will have snarfed it up by now.

Antique Rebozo Colored with Natural Dyes

The detailing is exquisite.  Cats, butterlies, eagles, dogs, turkeys, rabbits, birds, all adorn this marvelous piece.

This and the pieces below are typical of the Hueyapan region.  Siuamej represents the crafts of Chachahuantla, Chigmecatitlan, Cholula, Cuetzalan, Huatlatlauca, Mezontla, Pahuatlan, Yaonahua, and Zacatlan, in addition to the capital city.  Each area has a distinctive design style.

Puebla, an abundance of textile creativity

I bought a lovely, backstrap loom woven natural cotton (off white) quechquemetl (an over the head sewn-together scarf-like shawl) make in Cuetzalan, a town I have heard of but never visited.  I was tempted to go home with more, but I knew my two pieces of  luggage were already close to maximum weight.  Even a few ounces more might have tipped me over and I was already planning on wearing two outfits  on the plane ride home.

Puebla textile detail

Puebla textile detail

Here, you can see the traditional handwork along with the hand-tied fringes.  It’s quite lovely.  Most pieces are priced in the $40-$100 USD range.

For a complete visual compendium of Puebla textiles, see www.mexicantextiles.com and search for the word “Hueyapan” which is the region where these pieces are made.

To find the shop Siuamej, walk from the Zocalo on Av. Juan de Palafox y Mendoza toward the antiques and talavera district.  The shop is a couple of blocks from the Zocalo on your left.  The address is Av. Juan de Palafox y Mendoza #206 Centro Historico, Tel. (222) 2 32 36 94

The Centro Historico, Puebla

Puebla: Undiscovered Tourist Destination

Chrissy Zenino authored this online magazine article on Suite 101 after traveling with me to the city of Puebla, one of my favorite destinations.  Why?  I love the European feel of this city — the Baroque and Rococo detailing of historic buildings and churches, the swirling stucco wedding cake embellishments that sit atop buildings that look like meringue frosting, the elaborate ironwork, and most especially the Talavera.  I like to make a pilgrimage stop to Puebla at least once a year either going to Oaxaca for an overnight or going back to Mexico City from Oaxaca to break up the trip.  One night there is really not sufficient!  Book your hotel (either one that she recommends are my two favorites) using Hotel.com and get a deluxe room for a bargain price.

http://www.suite101.com/content/puebla-mexicos-best-kept-secret-a306835

Bus From Puebla to Mexico City Airport


We are on the Estrella Roja airporter bus that takes us directly to the international terminals One and Two at Benito Juarez Airport. We have been following the volcanoes for the past hour and a half. An impressive site with smoke. Idling from the cone of snow-capped El Popo.

This bus is luxe complete with free wifi and free drinks and snacks for 194 pesos which is about equivalent to $16 USD. Chrissy and I are both blogging so this two hour trip goes quickly. We fortified ourselves at the 4 Poniente bus terminal with complementary cafe americano.

The 4 Poniente bus station is about 7 minutes from the Puebla historic center and much more convenient than going the 20-30 minutes outside town to the larger TAPU station where we arrived from Oaxaca.

We bought the tickets to Mexico City as soon as we arrived at TAPU since seats fill quickly. Bus transport is the easiest and most cost effective way for locals to travel throughout Mexico. Muy facile y tranquilo.

Each state/region has it’s own bus line. So it is Estrella Roja that serves Puebla while ADO serves Oaxaca.

Most of the international flights leave from Terminal One in Mexico City. Continental/United departs from Terminal Two (same as AeroMexico). This bus makes stops at both terminals so travelers don’t have to take the airtrain. This makes it really easy to make a stopover to Puebla when you are going to Oaxaca. And it is much cheaper to fly round trip to MC and then take internal bus transport.

Buen viaje.