Tag Archives: Zapotec

Return to San Pablo: Oaxaca’s Indigenous Cultural and Academic Center

At Centro Academico y Cultural San Pablo we discover secrets, surprises and ancient stones.

  

An 18th century rosary chapel with contemporary stained glass window designed by Francisco Toledo, the imposing green stone façade mingled with original 16th century adobe, and a gold-leaf altar are only a few of the architectural delights of San Pablo de los Indios, the first Dominican convent in Oaxaca.

Our guide, Janet Chavez Santiago, coordinator of educational programs, described the features and history of this glorious structure.  She said there were important surprises found during the excavation for the foundation:

Two female skeletons were uncovered that date from 500 B.C.  These are the oldest found in Oaxaca, older than those from Monte Alban I.  The women were buried with ceramics of the same style found at Monte Alban, though older.

  

Every convent has a fountain, Janet says.  The location was evident but the design of the original fountain was illusive, so architect Mauricio Rocha created a symbolic water feature out of obsidian, a native Mexican stone.

  

In the main patio, the outline of a doorway framed by ruffled stone, was the opening to Benito Juarez University, which was known as Instituto des Artes de Oaxaca.

  

Later, Janet would show us where Benito Juarez, director of the institute, later president of Mexico and leader of the reformation, had his offices.  At the entrance, there are two layers of painting:  17th century frescoes and grafitti and 19th century wallpaper.

The main patio area, called the sala capitula, is where the Dominicans assembled to govern the convent.  Architects wanted to go down to the original floor and as they did, they found a large rock and river stones.  As they kept excavating they uncovered a Zapotec temple foundation that was the same age as the bone discoveries. Archeologists who were brought in to examine the materials believe the city was an indigenous religious center that pre-dates the famed mountaintop site.

  

The beauty of San Pablo is more than skin deep.  It takes us back to the origins of Oaxaca and it is not too difficult to imagine life as it might have been then.  The convent is dedicated to the cultural and linguistic diversity of the state and preserving the traditions and language of its indigenous people.  Originally, it was the only convent to serve the indigenous population.

  

As Janet explains the language of the stones used in the original structure (flat and hand hewn) and the later restorations, she also tells us that one of her primary goals is to teach Zapotec (Tlacolula valley dialect) to anyone who is interested.  She hopes the courses will begin in May 2012.

  

As we leave, we take one last glimpse at the imposing green glass wall that surrounds and protects the library archives.  We marvel at this architectural masterpiece that so consciously and sensitively blends past with present and future to keep the dream of cultural continuity alive.

Footnote: Originally, the entrance to San Pablo faced toward the Zocalo and was framed by a large patio.  There were three alleyways open to access it.  Over the years, these alleyways were closed off and the patio disappeared as the Dominicans sold off property to pay to restore the church bell tower and other damage during a major 18th century earthquake.  That’s when private homes and the Macedonio Alcala Theatre were built.  San Pablo was last used as a hotel when the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation purchased it in 2005.  The restoration began in 2006, totally supported by the Foundation.

 

 

Indigenous Languages Sustain Cultural Heritage: At Risk of Extinction

Zapotec, Mixtec, Huave, Nahuatl and the other 12 indigenous languages of Oaxaca have fewer and fewer native speakers.  As young people want to become part of the “mainstream” Spanish-speaking culture they leave their mother language and their culture behind — often out of the strong desire to assimilate.

And continuing education requires commitment, resources, and a lifting out of rural poverty.  Oaxaca is the second poorest state in Mexico and one of the most rural.

Many villages have kindergartens and primary schools that offer bilingual education.  For example, in Teotitlan del Valle the kindergarten teaches in both Zapotec and Spanish and encourages children to learn and speak Zapotec at home and as part of their everyday communication.

A new indigenous language center is opening in Oaxaca city supported by the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation.  The historic building that will house the center is under renovation now and I don’t know exactly when it will open.

The Center will preserve and teach indigenous languages in Oaxaca.  Our friend Janet Chavez Santiago, who speaks fluent Zapotec, Spanish, English, French, and a smattering of other European languages, will coordinate the educational programs designed to inform the public about the importance and value of teaching language to sustain culture. She will also develop programs to bring in young people to study, learn, and enjoy the languages spoken by their parents and grandparents.

The British publication The Guardian published an essay on Wednesday, June 29, 2011, as part of a journalism competition entitled Lessons From Oaxaca: What stops children in rural areas going to school?   

Here is the link:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/journalismcompetition/lessons-from-oaxaca

San Francisco State University Professor Troi Carleton is determined to save Zapotec, a language indigenous to Mexico — and to do it before it is lost to new generations transformed by technology and social change. “When a language dies, its culture dies, too,” Carleton said.  For years, she has been bringing linguistics students to Teotitlan del Valle to live with families and record the language — an oral tradition that has not been written down.  I’ll be talking to Troi more about her more recent work in upcoming posts.

FYI:  The new indigenous language center will be next to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, corner Hidalgo and Fiallo, two blocks from the Zocalo.

Film Review: Woven Lives—Contemporary Textiles from Ancient Oaxacan Traditions

This documentary film is a visual feast for the senses that takes us on a sensory journey across Oaxaca, Mexico.  Here we meet the exemplars – the outstanding artists, artisans, and curators who are keeping the weaving traditions alive.  This film captures sense of place, history, culture, and diversity.  It creates a vital thread from past to future, linking the emotional and aesthetic work that goes into the creative process with the economic implications of survival for the art and the culture.

Featured are extraordinary weavers who work on the two-harness floor loom, the back-strap loom, and use fly shuttle weaving.  We learn about the process of cultivating, spinning and weaving silk.  We understand the environmental and sustainable responsibility for using natural dyes, and the importance of finding world markets to sell so that the culture endures.

The film features several of my favorite weavers:  Federico Chavez Sosa, Erasto “Tito” Mendoza Ruiz, and Abigail Mendoza.  It also includes commentary by my friends Eric Chavez Santiago, education director at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, and Janet Chavez Santiago, a linguist and weaver. (Federico’s rugs are available for sale on this web site in the Gallery-Shop Here)

There is so much that this 1:16:19 DVD film by University of Wisconsin-Madison professor Carolyn Kallenborn covers in such a relatively short period. And you can choose to watch in English or in Spanish.

We hear the Zapotec language spoken and how its revival is a way to sustain cultural traditions. We appreciate weaving as a community endeavor to support generational continuity.  We learn how designs are created on the tapestry loom extrapolated from archeological stone carving.  We see how the cochineal bug is cultivated on the prickly pear cactus and the chemical oxidation of indigo.  To ground us, life in Oaxaca is interwoven throughout.

We discover how American students can intern with Oaxaca weavers for cultural exchange.  We realize that it takes 20 days to hand spin enough silk to make one shawl and five days to weave it.  We come to value the time and energy it takes to work by hand — to wash, card, spin, dye and weave a quality textile.

Carolyn Kallenborn’s in-depth film is ambitious, comprehensive, and compelling.  It is a must-see for every lover of woven art, every student and teacher who is involved in the creative process, and all who want to know more about Oaxaca and its extraordinary textile traditions.

To order your own personal copy, go to www.wovenlivesoaxaca.com or www.vidaentretejidas.com

Federico Chavez Sosa’s handwoven rugs made with naturally dyed wool are available for sale on this web site. Click on Gallery Shop Here under the photo banner.

Review by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC,  www.oaxacaculture.com

 

 

 

Zapotec Fashionistas Know — It’s All in the Apron


Katie wrapped in apron and head scarf with market apron vendor

What does the stylish Zapotec woman wear?  Why, an apron, of course!  Aprons with ruffles, embroidery, scalloped detailing, lace, deep pockets and a secure button closure with waist tie are the ubiquitous fashion statement in the Tlacolula valley of Oaxaca.  The center of apron fashionistas is the Sunday Tlacolula Market.  There, an entire aisle is devoted to the apron and accompanying colorful headscarves.  Aprons come in all variations on the theme of checkered, gingham-like, cotton or cotton/poly blend fabric.  They can be simple straight edge or more complicated, heavily scalloped at the hemline and bodice.  Price depends upon complexity of style and amount of embroidery.  Aprons can be magical, embroidered with figures of birds, flowers, animals, and fruit.  The fancier the apron, the more it costs.

Polly chooses hers, and ...

Gringas like aprons, too.  After we buy ours and wear them, we get big smiles from the locals.  The fun is in the fashion show for each other, shopkeepers and passers-by. Almost like dress-up when we were girls 🙂  What’s amazing is that you can be wear any plain ‘ole thing underneath, and a great apron from Tlacolula just adds color, fun and spark to life.  When you come to a village in Oaxaca you will see that the apron is just part of everyday dressing.  For us, it’s a way to enjoy another dimension of Oaxaca.  Now, we are ready for cooking class!

Robin finds one that suits her at the local market in Teotitlan del Valle.

Helen loves this one with brown tones.

Las Cuevitas, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico

They call it “the little caves.”  The road there curves through the village from the church, up the narrow cobblestone paved streets, crosses over a bridge, then becomes dirt at the outskirts of town.  If you closed your eyes, you could be in medieval Europe, but you are in southern Mexico and it is January 2.  No buses operate today.  The shops are closed.  Families are readying for the late afternoon pilgrimage to the caves to build their dreams from small stones and rocks scattered on the hillsides. Everyone goes together and participates, from infants to ancients.

Flags at Las Cuevitas

Today, I am sitting in my North Carolina living room for the first time in years that I have not been in Teotitlan for Las Cuevitas.  It is a family tradition we share with Federico and Dolores.  In homage to this, I write again about what it means to have family ritual, dreams and aspirations. I imagine I am there and today I will build my dreams in symbolic unity with my friends.

Line-up for Las Cuevitas

The road is packed with cars, trucks, vans, taxis, and tuk-tuks.  The walkers are in single file hugging the space between tall courtyard walls and street.  They can walk faster than we can ride, but the ritual is also in the getting-there.  Our small sedan holds seven people all adult-sized, three in front, four in back.  We are on top of each other.  Ahead of and behind us, the truck-beds are outfitted with chairs and benches to make the ride more comfortable for the older folks.  We park and walk to get in line to first make our prayers and offerings at the Cave of the Virgin.

Sparklers After Dark, Las Cuevitas, Teotitlan del Valle

This pre-Hispanic Zapotec worship site is simple and sacred.  The cave is a small grotto beside a creek.  Spanish Catholicism is overlaid atop ancient cultural practices with traditional religious symbols of the Virgin of Guadalupe and wood-carved crosses.  Yet, there is something more spiritual here than meets the eye.  As our line moves slowly toward the grotto, I scan the hillside as the sun begins to set.  The bonfires begin to glow in the dusk and children are playing with sparklers.  When we reach the shrine, we each add an offering of pesos to others along with an unspoken prayer for the new year.   The grotto is filled with coins, larger denomination peso paper bills, and dollars.  The pilgrimage attracts returning family members who live in the U.S., too.

Building Dreams, Las Cuevitas, Teotitlan del Valle

As we exit, we pass by the small chapel built into the hillside where the village band plays traditional Zapotec tunes and the food vendors have set-up tented  stalls.  The aroma of fresh tamales, churros, sweet buns, and tacos fill the air.  The pop of firecrackers add a perfect exclamation point.  Couples and families emerge from the chapel; women’s heads are covered with traditional Tenancingo ikat scarves.  The sun fades behind the hills and chill overtakes us.  The elders cover their shoulders with churro wool woven on local looms.  The youngsters bundle up in parkas and vests.

Lila Downs at Las Cuevitas, 2010, Wearing a Handwoven Poncho by Erasto "Tito" Mendoza

We climb the rocky hillside, picking our way carefully between the outcroppings and stone rubble of tumbled dreams from years past to find a spot to settle and build this year’s dream.  Around us, families huddle and build:  a house under construction needs a new roof; the unfinished third bedroom needs stucco and paint; the burro that died last summer needs replacement; grandfather’s land would be a perfect place for a new house.  The small rocks, sticks, moss and dried grasses become grand palaces with thatched roofs, corrals, cars and animals.  If you don’t build the dream here you won’t achieve it!

Building a new house

At this moment, there is a fire roaring in our North Carolina wood stove.  When sun sets in Teotitlan the fires will roar, the firecrackers will spark, and the sky will be lit with a million twinkling stars.  Extended families will visit, embrace their children, share food and a sip of mescal, and life will begin anew as the cycle of celebration and ritual continues.  On January 6 during the Day of the Three Kings, the Christmas season will close and families will gather again.

Traditional New Year Sugar Cookie, Las Cuevitas, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

Today, Stephen and I will go into the fields of our farm and gather stones to construct our dreams and make our wishes.

Prospero ano neuvo a todos.  May good health and contentment guide your path.

Our contribution to Las Cuevitas from Pittsboro del Valle

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